Today was an off day after driving over 1,300 miles in the previous five days. We slept until 7:30, late for us, though the caretaker’s dogs were barking near the motorhome at 4:30 this morning. Tad was so good. He gave a low growl and a quiet “woof,” but didn’t lose his mind over the intruders like many dogs would.
Although we missed the sunrise over the ocean, we awakened to an absolutely perfect day on San Luis Gonzaga Bay. After breakfast, we sipped our coffee and watched birds gliding over the water. The same dogs that woke us earlier came by to make amends. The larger one, a mix that looked like a Great Pyrenees and Golden Retriever, was very friendly. The Australian cattle dog was friendly too, though a bit snippy with Tad.
We went for a long walk along the beach, searching for rocks and shells, and found plenty. We walked out to what must have once been someone’s dream home, now in ruins. About 30 years ago, a storm shifted the river channel, undercutting the foundation. The house, once perched above the beach with expansive windows and a beautiful deck overlooking the ocean, now sits abandoned, a complete loss.
We had visited the ruins last year, and Tad and I climbed up again this year. It’s hard not to feel the weight of it, how something so carefully built can be taken back so quickly.
Back at camp, we bought two hours of internet time and caught up on emails, updated the blog, and checked the news.
Paying for internet by the hour is a strange experience, you have to let your time expire before you can add more. Add in some translation challenges around technical jargon, and the whole process became a bit comical.
We met Janice's brother Marty's doppelganger, from British Columbia! His name is Richard and we had a nice conversation with him about traveling.
While we sat there using up our precious minutes online, we noticed Jacqueline searching the shallow water at low tide. After a while, we realized she was hunting for octopus. She found three small ones, cleaned them right there in the surf, and tossed the remains to the gulls.
We had octopus (pulpo) last year in Cabo Pulmo. Randy Webb bought it, and I followed an online recipe. It was okay, but Janice and I both felt a bit uneasy eating it, knowing how intelligent these creatures are.
We spent time watching brown pelicans and gulls diving for fish just offshore. It was incredible to see them working together, plunging into the water in tight formation.
I started writing this yesterday, Tuesday 3/24, but I’m finishing it now. It’s nearly 2 a.m., and Comet isn’t feeling well. She has episodes like this at home. Yesterday she seemed fine on her walk with Janice, though she spent most of the day in her carrier, tucked away in the storage compartment.
Comet has some renal failure. We feed her special food and give her an appetite enhancer, Janice applies a paste to her ear. Hopefully, she’ll feel better in the morning. She’s 16 now, and as with all our aging companions who have passed; Lincoln (2026), Oreo (2021), Eclipse (2020) we will walk with her to the end, doing everything we can to give her comfort, care, and quality of life.
Our pets give us so much love and companionship. We are deeply grateful for our time with them, and for the memories Janice and I share.
I want to share the story of Rafael Diez, our friend who owns Campo Beluga.
We met Rafael on our first Baja trip in 2024. We were looking for a place to stay, and Ken Carloni had mentioned this spot from his Baja botany trips with Umpqua Community College.
We made the slow journey down the wagon road to Campo Beluga, creeping along like a true wagon train. When we arrived, Rafael told us the cost was 300 pesos, cash only. We only had 150. He smiled and said that was fine, we could pay him the rest next time.
The next morning, he invited us into his small two-room home. He offered us water and food and shared stories from his life.
He bought Campo Beluga in the 1970s. He holds dual U.S./Mexico citizenship and worked as a lineman for AT&T. He had a home in San Diego and was married to a woman who is now a judge. Though divorced, they remain best friends.
He laughed as he told us he married Jacqueline, half his age, because he let his “little head” do the thinking.
Rafael loves to talk, and it felt like he needed companionship. We were the only ones at camp. He told us about his cancer, how the treatment made him feel worse, and how his ex-wife wanted him to continue. He spoke about his daughter in Oklahoma, who wants him to move there so she can care for him. He said he’s trying to sell Campo Beluga for $3 million, he was close once, but the deal fell through. It was clear he loves this place deeply and doesn’t want to leave the ocean.
When we left in April 2024, we were sad to say goodbye. We told him we would return.
When we came back in 2025, he was happy to see us. We paid the 150 pesos we owed, though he didn’t want to take it. He had added a couple more dogs, but it was clear the cancer was slowing him down.
He told us stories of San Luis Gonzaga when it was more of a frontier outpost. He talked about Papa Fernandez to the north, a place for food and beer and about a doctor who died after a plane crash on the beach airstrip. He was there when it happened and tried to help.
He also told a story from his AT&T days. He was flown to a classified job near Dallas, where they wanted him to string lines over a nuclear facility. He refused due to the danger. When they threatened to fire him, he came up with an idea, shoot the line over using an arrow. They let him try. It worked. He kept his job.
Rafael believes his cancer may be linked to PCB exposure during his years as a lineman.
Last year, when we left, we invited him to visit us in Oregon. I gave him my card and told him to call anytime. We hugged him goodbye and promised we’d return.
We are sad he isn’t here this time. It’s not the same without him. I’ll try to get his number from Jacqueline tomorrow.
It’s now 3 a.m. Comet has settled into sleep in the cab. She doesn’t like to be jostled when she’s not feeling well.
I hope she feels better in the morning.
As the tide moves in and out under a sky full of unseen stars, I am reminded that everything here, this bay, the ruins on the bluff, Rafael’s stories, and the lives of the animals we love, is part of a larger rhythm we are only beginning to understand. We arrive, we build, we connect, and in time, we let go. Yet nothing is truly lost. It all becomes part of the story, the living memory of this place and of us. Tonight, in the stillness between worry and hope, I feel both the fragility and the beauty of it all. And with gratitude, we choose to simply be present, for this moment, for this journey, and for the love that carries us through it.



.jpg)