It was freezing overnight, the mercury dipping down to around 27 degrees. At that temperature, the furnace cycles on and off bringing the noisy hum of the blower fan with it every time. It’s that back-and-forth click and roar of the fan that keeps waking me, cutting short any chance of a truly deep sleep.
Sometime before first light, I bundled up to take Tad out for a quick relief break so we could both get safely tucked back under our respective blankets. Frost glittered across the ground, and a paper-thin skin of ice had formed over the driveway puddles, so neither of us felt like lingering. Back inside the motorhome, I lit the burner under the coffee pot and slid straight back into the still-warm bedding, pulling the covers secure until only my face was exposed. As I drifted in and out of sleep, my mind wandered back to our uninvited hitchhiker rodent. I haven't heard a single scratch or rustle since that campground stay. Perhaps it rethought its travel plans or simply froze in last night’s chill.
We were parked in the back of the restaurant where the owner had kindly let us set up for the night. It saved us a solid fifteen minutes of driving and, best of all, gave us full cell service.
A couple of hours later, we finally got moving to prepare for departure. After weeks of steady travel, today is the real turning point. From here on out, we are charting the most direct route home, sprinkling in visits with friends along the way wherever we can fit them in. I always feel a bit guilty that we can’t stop to see everyone along our path, but once your wheels are pointed toward home, the subtle pull of the familiar starts tugging hard.
To maximize every bit of heat inside, we pulled the living space slides in before when the light starts to fade. Our theory is that it minimizes the volume of air we have to warm inside, minimizing the surface area outside, and creating a tighter seal against the motorhome walls. When those slides are extended in sub-freezing cold, you can easily feel drafts sneaking in through the gaps and see tiny slivers of daylight around the seals. For all its promises, the built-in "Arctic Package"—a tank-warming setup underneath—isn't quite built for true multi-day freezes. And since we’re rarely plugged into power, we have to keep the thermostat set low anyway, or the constant draw from the furnace fan will completely drain our house batteries.
We managed to scrape through the night just as the battery voltage was teetering on the edge, so I fired up the engine early to give the house battery a much-needed boost. Breakfast was a low-key bowl of cold cereal, and before we knew it, we were rolled out and on the road. Outside, the peak autumn color has officially passed. After a heavy frost like last night's, the leaves are coming down in subtle, steady showers with every mile we head west.
The local brewery where we stopped was officially guarded by a friendly female Lab mix named Chinook—or "Nook" for short. Her command station was a comfortable couch positioned right by the front window. She would nap or keep a lazy eye on the driveway until a car pulled up, at which point she’d spring into action, trotting behind the bar to give proprietor Bill a quiet alert that incoming visitors had arrived. It was hard to tell who ran the place, but Nook clearly took her greeting duties very seriously.
We were low on fresh water so Bill kindly let us top off our water. This prompted us to return to the motorhome to take care of that and walk the dog around the neighborhood.
With light traffic and no sidewalks, we took to wandering along the edge of the road to explore the neighborhood. We had just reached the first residence and were about to turn back when a large dog came charging out toward us in an aggressive, threatening posture, a woman giving chase behind and shouting frantically for her dog to stop. A second, smaller and much friendlier dog trailed in their wake, eventually catching up as the woman reached us.
We paused to chat with her for a bit about the local area and nearby attractions, but as we turned to take our leave, her larger dog, a Golden Retriever with a coat almost identical in color to Tad’s, began to escalate, bearing its teeth, snarling, snapping, and posturing aggressively toward Tad. The woman tried to regain control by grabbing and pulling on her dog’s tail, but with the threat mounting quickly, Kasey and I took immediate action to protect our leashed boy. Kasey stepped in while I delivered a solid kick to the dog’s chest to create separation, and boomed out a stern, authoritative "NO!"
The sharp reset was enough to break the Golden's focus. We put distance between us as fast as we could and headed straight back to the safety of our spot at the brewery where Nook was undoubtedly keeping a much more disciplined eye on things.
After placing Tad safely inside the motorhome where he could rest away from any more outside excitement, Kasey and I headed back into the brewery to continue our conversation with Bill.
He takes extraordinary care with naming his beers—you could say he is deadly serious about it. Over the next hour, he shared the stories behind each logo, mapping out how the area's rich history was carefully woven into every design. Local train lines, historic oat crops, and devastating regional fires were all thoughtfully incorporated into the names, artwork, and logos. No detail, no matter how small, is overlooked.
His absolute pride and joy is his Serious Blonde—a signature brew that seamlessly fuses several of these historical concepts and local elements into a single glass. Listening to him speak, it was clear that every pour was as much about honoring the community's past as it was about great craft beer.
Another tap story Bill shared with us was for Schoharie Burning, a award-winning Belgian Wheat beer named after the tragic burning of the wheat fields throughout the Schoharie Valley during the Revolutionary War. Flavored with sweet orange peel, grains of paradise, and coriander, it’s a beautifully complex brew that honors a pivotal moment in New York history.
Then there was The Running Red Coats. Originally intended to be a traditional red ale, Bill accidentally doubled up on some of the specialty grains during a batch run. The resulting brew turned out far darker than expected—much more brown than red. Rather than scrapping it, Bill embraced the mishap with his trademark humor, joking that the rich brown color perfectly matched the backside of the British britches as they high-tailed it out of Saratoga!
The bar closed up at 6:00 PM, and after gathering our accumulated purchases to take along on the rest of our journey, we settled in for the night. As the last of the patrons cleared out, the back parking area quieted down completely, leaving us with a peaceful, silent spot to spend the evening tucked away in the motorhome.
Reflecting on the Road Ahead: A Living Map of American Transportation
As we map out our westward push, we've been weighing whether to stick to the toll-free state routes or jump onto the major turnpikes. It got me thinking about why American highway systems feel so fundamentally different depending on which half of the country you're driving through:
- Timing & Pre-Interstate Bonding: The biggest historical reason for the divide comes down to when these expressways were built. By the late 1930s through the early 1950s, traffic demand along the Eastern Seaboard and around the Great Lakes was exploding. States needed high-speed, limited-access highways immediately, but federal funding for major interstate highways didn't exist yet. To pay for construction, eastern states issued revenue bonds, borrowing money from investors and pledging to pay them back using toll revenue collected directly from drivers. When President Eisenhower signed the landmark Federal-Aid Highway Act of 1956, everything changed. The federal government agreed to cover 90% of the cost for building a nationwide Interstate Highway System using federal gas taxes, but not for toll roads. Existing toll turnpikes were grandfathered into the Interstate network, but new routes were built as "freeways." Because most major highways in the West were constructed after 1956, Western states relied on that 90% federal match rather than state-issued toll bonds.
- Traffic Volume & Population Density: Toll roads require heavy, reliable traffic to generate enough revenue to pay off initial construction bonds and cover ongoing maintenance. The tight network of major cities across the East and Midwest creates dense, steady streams of intercity travel unlike the West. Outside of major coastal metro areas like Los Angeles, San Francisco, and Seattle, Western states feature vast distances between urban centers. Low traffic volume across hundreds of miles of open land meant toll revenue could never justify the upfront cost of building a turnpike.
- Engineering Costs (Rivers, Bays, and Tunnels): Building highways in the East frequently meant tackling complex water crossings and dense urban rights-of-way. Major river estuaries, bays, and harbors required high-capital infrastructure—such as tunnels under harbor shipping channels and massive suspension or causeway bridges crossing rivers like the Hudson, Delaware, and Susquehanna, or bays like the Chesapeake. To fund these enormous engineering feats, states created dedicated bridge and tunnel authorities supported entirely by tolls.
- Differing Highway Philosophies: Historically, Western states adopted a different funding philosophy, relying on state gas taxes and general funds to keep highways open and free. In vast regions where travel between towns is a daily necessity rather than a luxury, open access was seen as critical for local economies. While Western states have added tolling in recent decades, it usually looks different: instead of traditional turnpikes where everyone pays, the West has largely adopted Express/HOT (High-Occupancy Toll) lanes, giving drivers the choice to pay for a faster trip alongside existing free lanes.
The next time you cruise across a turnpike in the East or enjoy a long, uninterrupted stretch of freeway in the West, you're experiencing a living map of American transportation history! Whether navigating eastern turnpikes or winding backroads, every mile west brings us closer to home.