Day 8: Sept 10, 2026. Jamestown ND to Brainerd, MN

As usual, the signal for beginning the day came from Tad. The answer came from Kasey this time and I slumbered on. The Bison Museum was not open until 10 am so we were in no rush. The other Harvest Host guests were readying themselves for the days journey. Kasey returned with Tad and he crawled back in bed. The coffee brewing filled the air and eventually signaled that it was time to remove it from the flame. We ate breakfast and headed for the Trading Post to see what was interesting.

The parking lot was starting to fill and I thought we would get a peak at the Bison in the field but they made themselves scarce. Perhaps because there had been a few vocal dogs among the guests. 

To our delight, a hand written sign on the door to the Trading Post read ”Dog Friendly” and so we all stepped inside. The owner, Roger, was very talkative and began to engage us in conversation. His wife is retiring soon and they want to move to Oregon or someplace with sand and an ocean. It was end of the season and everything was 25% off.

Roger is a dog fan and told me about a few of the dogs that he’d had including a Golden Retriever and Irish Setter cross. As I talked, Kasey and Tad wondered around looking at all the items for sale. Baseball memorabilia, hunting and fishing items, jewelry, and scores of unique items that we did not need. 

Kasey had spotted a set of statues of Laurel and Hardy and a conversation quickly shifted to nostalgia. Roger said no one remembers them anymore and he was the first to ask about them. Well, pretty soon we had Laurel and Hardy on the counter and in no time, out the door. Once in view, many senior members of society were smiling in recognition ; Kasey with delight.

Once Laurel and Hardy were safely tucked into the motorhome, we stepped into the museum for a historical lesson about Bison. It ain’t pretty. It is sad. 

Luckily, there were people who recognized the plight of the bison before it was too late. Not as numerous as they were historically, the herds have resurged with the help of some notable people both historical and contemporary. 

Bison are remarkable and much preferred over cattle. I became a vegetarian when I was in college because of the cattle industry. Over the years I began to eat other meats and still avoid beef. Bison, I have no problem with and I chose to not support an industry that seeks to influence which predators are removed because they are attacking their non-native herd. The recent focus on lethally removing the Mexican Gray Wolf because it is preying in cattle is disheartening. There are so few of the wolves left and so many unnatural cattle. Maybe the ranchers should raise Bison. 

At least the Bison have good vision and instincts. While swapping cattle for bison would undoubtedly reduce wolf-livestock conflicts and lower livestock mortality, the transition requires substantial upfront capital and a complete shift in management practices. If we ever do shift to Bison as a major source of protein, the health benefits would be a bonus since Bison are lower in fat and rich in iron, zinc, vitamin B12, and omega-3 fatty acids. It all comes down to money. 

We didn’t really see the Bison up close, but just knowing that they are there was important. 

We pointed our vehicle toward the east and set out for Brainerd where Kasey’s cousin, Jesse and his family live. Kasey mapped it out on a Google Maps and I was tasked with filling the silence. We had several hours of driving ahead. Finding a gas station and finding a sanidump were my tasks. Knowing the route we were taking, I found both in easy to access and convenient locations. First stop would be the sanidump so I plotted it in for navigation. Well, something seemed off. We weren’t on the highway I thought we were on. Seems a wrong turn was made when I was doing my research. 

No worries, to get back on track, the route would take us east and then south. At least we didn’t end up in Canada. The little town if Gadena provided an inexpensive and convenient spot to empty our tanks and the town of Baxter is where we filled our gas tank. It would be the last stop before Jesse’s and the last place the credit card, now missing, was used.

At Jesse’s, we maneuvered the RV down into the driveway. Jesse was there to greet us as was his daughter Caroline and a couple of friends. Bud and Rudy were waiting to meet Tad and they all got along swimmingly. We had dinner, salmon, vegetables, and rice. After dinner, we took a walk with all 3 dogs through the neighborhood. One of the houses had a lawn mowing robot. That’s a first for me. 

We settled on the patio for conversation and a fire. Jesse and I started talking about our religious upbringing and although we both were raised Catholic, we have different experiences and similar philosophies about it. We agreed on many aspects and how important it is to be kind, compassionate, and accepting. Nothing wrong with that.

Time to turn in. I looked at my phone and at some point missed a call. The number traced to Baxter. It was then we realized the credit card was missing. I surmise that it is Costco and someone has turned it in but we will have to wait until tomorrow to find out. The dog is exhausted. That is a good thing.

Day 7: Makoshika State State Park MT to Jamestown ND- 400 Miles 4.5 Hours

Our seventh day on the road began with a thunderclap.

At least, I thought it did.

I bolted awake in the darkness, my heart pounding, certain that an enormous clap of thunder had just exploded outside our motorhome. But everything was perfectly still. Janice was sleeping peacefully beside me. Tad was sound asleep on his bed in the living room. No rain. No storm. No thunder.

It had all been a dream.

We have been listening to an audiobook as we travel, and in the chapter the previous day, the main character was repeatedly exposed to lightning and thunder. There hadn't actually been thunder coming through the speakers, but apparently my brain had supplied its own soundtrack during the night, and a remarkably convincing one!

Eventually I fell back asleep, but the experience stayed with me throughout the day. It was a fascinating reminder of just how powerfully we internalize the things we experience, whether they are real, imagined, heard, seen, or simply felt.

Morning eventually arrived for real, bringing blue skies and perfect temperatures in the low 70s. After yogurt, strawberries and coffee, we headed out with Tad to explore a couple of trails near our campsite at Makoshika State Park.

What a place!

Makoshika has a landscape that rivals many of the National Parks we have visited. Everywhere we looked were badland hills, gullies, ridges and strange formations sculpted by millions of years of erosion. Some of the hills looked as though someone had poured enormous quantities of melted candle wax down their sides and allowed it to harden into streaks, folds and ripples.

We scrambled with Tad up a steep outcrop and stopped to take it all in.

Standing there, it wasn't difficult to let our imaginations travel backward through time. Fossils of dinosaurs are still being discovered in these hills, including hadrosaurs like Edmontosaurus. Looking across that prehistoric landscape, I could almost imagine dinosaurs lumbering through the valleys below us, perhaps beginning their own morning search for breakfast.

After our hike, Janice and I climbed aboard our e-bikes for a different kind of adventure.

Near our campsite was a road heading deeper into the park accompanied by a rather ominous warning: "Trailers not recommended beyond this sign."

Naturally, we decided that sounded like someplace worth exploring.

The road immediately began climbing, twisting and turning through the badlands. Even with the pedal assist on our e-bikes, reaching the summit about 2½ miles away took some work. But when we finally arrived, the reward was spectacular.

Before us stretched an even wilder landscape of sculpted hills, deep ravines and formations seemingly stacked one upon another. Among them was a remarkable natural bridge. We stopped repeatedly, partly to catch our breath and mostly because it was impossible not to stare.

At the summit we met fellow travelers Hilly and Diane from Virginia. As so often happens on the road, a casual conversation about travel grew into something deeper. Hilly, who spoke with a German accent, shared some of his concerns about the direction our country and world have taken and said that had he known what would transpire here, he might not have immigrated.

I understood his disappointment. There is plenty happening in the world that concerns us, too. But I told him that I remain optimistic that we can overcome the challenges we face. It won't necessarily be easy, and there are certainly days when maintaining that optimism requires some effort. Still, I continue to believe in people, community and our ability to find a better path forward.

Then it was time for gravity to take over.

We stopped first to investigate a tiny two-site campground near the summit, definitely filed away for a possible future visit, and then pointed our bikes downhill.

What had taken considerable effort to climb became one heck of a ride going back.

We swept around the steep curves at more than 30 miles per hour, grinning as the badlands flew past us. At least we were grinning until we unexpectedly hit a rough section of pavement.

There was an immediate clenching of teeth, and several other body parts, as we gripped the handlebars and hung on!

Adventure successfully completed, we returned to the motorhome, brought in the slides and pointed our rolling cabin east once again.

Our destination was Jamestown, North Dakota, where we had arranged to spend the night through Harvest Hosts at the North American Bison Discovery Center.

Along the way we stopped for fuel at Costco in Bismarck. Of course, putting gasoline in the motorhome apparently required conducting a brief scientific investigation of yet another Costco.

We demonstrated remarkable restraint.

We escaped with only one enormous bag of Fritos Scoops, an essential piece of traveling equipment, since we still had a mountain of homemade pico de gallo from the night before. Waste not, want not!

By the time we reached Jamestown, three other campers were already settled in for the evening. Everyone was friendly, and although the Bison Discovery Center had closed for the day, there was still plenty to explore.

We took Tad for a walk around the grounds and wandered over to the neighboring Pioneer Village. Even with everything closed, it was fun peering around at the historic buildings and imagining the stories preserved inside them.

Tomorrow morning we'll have a chance to explore more when everything opens.

And then comes something we have been anticipating since we pulled away from home seven days ago:

Minnesota.

After a week of mountains, rivers, forests, badlands, thunderstorms that existed only in dreams, dinosaur country, long highways and countless little adventures, we're getting close to family.

The road has been wonderful.

But some destinations pull at your heart a little harder than others.

Pine City, here we come!

Day 6: Sept 8, 2026. Billings to Glendive. 223 miles

This morning we Left Canyon Creek brewery. On our departure, we talked with some people that were moving from Washington State to Washington Missouri. They were dog owners and were moving because they were concerned most with homeless and free needle distribution. I looked it up. 

Washington State supports and funds Syringe Service Program often referred to as needle exchanges, as a core component of its public health strategy to prevent the spread of blood-borne infections like HIV and Hepatitis C among people who inject drugs. Operating legally since a 1992 state Supreme Court ruling, these initiatives are managed locally by county public health departments, non-profit organizations, and community health agencies. While the primary function of these programs is to distribute sterile needles and collect used equipment for safe disposal, they also serve as vital connection points for healthcare, providing access to overdose-prevention tools like Naloxone alongside direct referrals to substance use treatment programs. I thought it was important to understand why and how this program works. When we do cleanups in the Umpqua, we often have to deal with discarded needles. I wonder if it would help if they did the same thing with condoms? Another unpleasant cleanup item.

Our first stop was Costco for gas and a few items. I went in before Kasey to get a head start. If you have an executive membership, you can shop starting at 9am instead of waiting until 10 when the peasants can also shop. What a system. And I like it because it isn’t busy. But at what cost? I don’t like crowds and if I pay more, I can avoid them. Is this what it is like to have money and influence? This does not feel right but I also like avoiding the crowds. What a huge business. I got to wonder what the store inventory was worth. In the millions no doubt. We got 3 items. A record low for Costco purchases. One item was lemon juice for our pico de gallo 

Back on the road, we called Mike and then Jerry back in Roseburg to check in. Quite a bit of rain happened while we were gone according to Mike. He was working on getting his deck replaced and Jerry had Jacob over working on yard work. Both of those things are what we also need to do. But, what the heck, we can do that later. Now we are travelling.

We had great weather as we travelled east in Montana toward our destination of Minnesota. We were listening to Heather Cox Richardson, Heather Delaney Reese, and Mary Gedry. All while enjoying the views.

As the miles rolled on, we started listening to more of our book by Ken Goddard, First Evidence. It makes the time fly. I remember when the Ashland Forensic Lab first opened in the late 80’s. I asked for a guided tour which Ken Goddard granted. It was fascinating and I became an instant fan. When I found out he wrote novels, I read several. Now we are reading some of his works on our trip. He is retired now, but his career is amazing. The first ever wildlife forensic lab was designed and built under his direction and it sits in Ashland Oregon. 

We made a stop at a rest area along our route. The building looked like an administration office. I kept looking for the restrooms. But this huge building WAS the restrooms. All brick and individual and private stalls. The parking lot was almost empty too and had some historical signs for information. Something about Jedediah Smith.

Our destination for the day was Makoshika State Park. Pronounced, Mah KO Shukah

Accent on the O. It means Land of Bad Spirits. It is just south of Glendive MT. I sometimes wonder about the towns we pass along the way. Glendive is a small city in eastern Montana and the county seat of Dawson County, home to roughly 4,800 residents. Sited along Interstate 94 on the banks of the Yellowstone River, it acts as an agricultural, commercial, and transportation hub for the surrounding badlands region. Makoshika State Park is located directly adjacent to the city and is Montana’s largest state park. It is renowned for its striking badland formations, rock pine, and extensive fossil remains of Tyrannosaurus rex and Triceratops. Glendive features two stops on the official Montana Dinosaur Trail, including the Glendive Dinosaur and Fossil Museum and the Frontier Gateway Museum. The river flowing through town offers popular outdoor activities like paddlefishing, kayaking, camping, and hunting for Montana Moss Agates along the shoreline.  

Founded in 1881 as a Northern Pacific Railway town, Glendive historically served as a hub for livestock transport and later experienced brief oil booms linked to the Williston Basin. It is also home to Dawson Community College. 

We have been here before in 2023 so we were quick to pick out a campsite and reserve it the night before. It was quite windy at the campground but when we arrived, we unloaded the bikes and headed back to the visitor center. What a cool bike rack. Nice touch. 

We spent a little time at the visitor center since we missed out last time we were here. The dinosaur history of this area is fascinating. They had a display of current inhabitants as well. 

We took Tad out for a walk to check out the area more. The layering on the hillsides is fascinating and shows the lines of soil deposition through the eons. Since we were here last, a disc golf course was constructed. A little windy today but apparently it was well researched and meets the PDGA standards.

Back at camp we proceeded to chop and process our peppers and tomatoes for salsa. We made a huge batch.

Our neighbor in the campground stopped by and we quickly gave him a small container of our creation. His wife would love it he said. 

Dinner was skillet burritos. Quite yummy. We spent the rest of the evening playing more games and sampling beer from our friend Al Walker. 

Soon it was bedtime. The wind was calm and it was so quiet. Another chapter of our book and we felt sleep overtake us. A good day.

Day 5 : Labor Day, September 7, 2026 - 396 miles, 7 hours

We pulled away from Jean's beautiful home on Swan Lake Monday morning full of warmth and special memories, grateful for the time we had shared and excited for the road still stretching ahead of us.

Diana had left about an hour before us, pointing her vehicle west toward Oregon while we would soon be heading east. We love traveling with Diana and wished she could simply turn around and join our little wagon train for the rest of the Grand Adventure.

That left Janice and me with one more precious hour with Julie and her mom, Jean.

After the stories, meals, laughter and memories of the past several days, there wasn't much more that needed to be said. Sometimes you recognize a special moment while you are still living it. This was one of those times. Our visit couldn't have been better, and I know it is something we will treasure forever.

One Last Stop in Swan Lake

Before leaving the area, Janice and I stopped at the Mission Mountain Mercantile for one last look around this delightful little store—and, importantly, to fill our coffee mugs for the road.

On the wall were beautiful panoramic maps of the Swan Mountain Range and Mission Mountains, identifying the peaks, passes, creeks and valleys of the country that had surrounded us during our stay.

I had also picked up a wonderful hooded sweatshirt covered with topographic lines and sketches of the mountains, trails and lakes. It seemed like the perfect souvenir—a wearable map of a place that had become much more meaningful to us over the past few days.

Coffee mugs filled, we climbed back aboard our rolling cabin and headed down the road.

Montana Through the Windshield

Our original plan was fairly modest: drive about four hours to Bozeman and call it a day. But plans on the "Chariot of the Dogs RV" are subject to change!

During the first part of the drive, as we worked our way toward Interstate 90, intermittent showers followed us through the mountains. Once we turned east, however, the clouds began giving way to sunshine, revealing the spectacular Montana landscape, forested mountains, dramatic rocky peaks, broad valleys and that seemingly endless western sky.

One of the things Janice and I enjoy when traveling is listening to local radio. It gives us a little sense of the communities we're passing through, the music people are hearing, the local voices, advertisements and bits of news from places that otherwise might simply be names on highway signs.

And Montana certainly seems to appreciate its classic rock.

Near Bozeman we found KBZM and its Labor Day special featuring classic hits from A to Z. It became our soundtrack as the miles rolled beneath us.

By the time we reached Bozeman, we were feeling good and decided, Why stop now?

So we kept going.

When the radio signal finally faded, we switched to our audiobook, First Evidence by Ken Goddard, a captivating mystery set in Oregon. A good audiobook is one of the great secrets of a long road trip. Before we knew it, another two hours had disappeared and Billings was coming into view.

Our destination was Canyon Creek Brewing, a Harvest Hosts location where we have stayed twice before.

Harvest Hosts has become one of our favorite ways to travel. Participating breweries, wineries, farms and other businesses allow RV travelers to stay overnight, giving us something much more interesting than another parking lot, and often introducing us to wonderful people along the way.  

The Staff at Canyon Creek Brewing welcomed us as graciously as ever. It being Labor Day, they were hosting a free barbecue, and the owner had roasted an entire pig along with several chickens. A lively crowd had gathered, including at least eight other people staying there through Harvest Hosts.

We found a spot on the patio, enjoyed the feast and a beer, and naturally brought Tad along. Which meant that within minutes, Tad was the star.

As happens nearly everywhere we take him, someone eventually said the words we have heard countless times:

“I haven't seen an Irish Setter in years!”

Tad accepts such admiration with appropriate dignity.

Among the people who came over to meet him was a family from the Netherlands who were traveling across the United States in a converted school bus. They stopped to pet Tad, and before long we were talking about traveling, the places we'd been and the adventures still ahead.

These spontaneous encounters are one of my favorite parts of being on the road. We arrive as strangers, Tad provides the introduction, and suddenly we're sharing stories with people whose paths might never cross ours again.

Eventually we returned to our little home on wheels. After 396 miles and seven hours on the road, you might imagine Janice would show some compassion for her weary husband. You would be mistaken. She proceeded to unmercifully beat me in a couple games of Spite and Malice. Apparently there is no mercy clause for long-distance driving.

We took Tad for his evening walk and then settled into bed, listening to another couple chapters of First Evidence before turning out the lights. And just like that, another day of our Grand Adventure was complete.

That morning we had awakened beside Swan Lake, surrounded by people and a place we had grown to love. That evening we were nearly 400 miles away in Billings, sharing barbecue and beer with strangers who quickly became acquaintances, while Tad collected yet another group of admirers. 

The mountains were now behind us, but I had them printed across my new hoodie, special memories tucked safely away, Janice beside me, Tad stretched out on his bed up front in our rolling cabin, and thousands of miles of road and special times together still ahead.

Day 4: Sunday, Sept 6. Swan Lake and Hiking Holland Lake, Montana

The rain continued into the morning as it pitter pattered on the roof of our motorhome. Kasey mentioned that there was even some thunder, but I didn’t hear it. I had let the rhythm of the rain lull me to sleep. I woke only a few times during the night making for a restful slumber.

The rain tapered off just in time for daylight. Like clockwork, Tad reminded me of his need to go for a walk. It was cool out but not cold. In the house, Julie had plugged in the coffee maker to my delight. She was quietly absorbing the morning news in the den away from the living room where Jean would have been awakened. I joined her with my coffee and we talked about many things. We were proud to have trapped the mouse that was terrorizing the the place and were celebrating our victory having saved the day.

Jean woke and was up so we joined her in the living room. Julie wás insistent that she relax while she made breakfast.

The lake was cleared of the low clouds except for a few along the far shore. It was gorgeous. Diana joined us we stared out at the lake’s changing view. 

Julie started in on breakfast. Considered a ”light” breakfast, she made sausage, and eggs. I cut a waterloup, a cross between a cantaloupe and a watermelon.

After breakfast, we piled into Julie’s car to go hike to the falls at Holland lake. Jean stayed behind, opting to rest.

Holland Lake is popular, for a reason. It has spectacular scenery. The dogs were plenty and a few I know enjoyed a lake swim. It was 1.5 miles to the falls and we took our time. 

Part of the Flathead National Forest, Holland Lake has developed a little controversy lately centering on developlent.

 https://takingthekids.com/controversy-has-suddenly-taken-over-this-once-quiet-montana-lake/

Kasey and Tad were a little faster than us as were the vast majority of young and tall adventurers. I would step to the side of the trail to let them pass and decided to take advantage of the opportunity to remind them of how this hike was possible because it was public land. “Enjoy your public lands, don’t forget to vote,” I would say as Julie chuckled at my bravery, or whatever. Young people, enjoying the publicly owned lands, during an important midterm, who knows. Maybe it made a difference.

We returned to the car just in time for the rain to start and made our way home. We stopped at the Mission Mountain Mercantile to check it out. A wonderful selection of gourmet items, clothing, groceries, fresh made sandwiches, and more. I got a portable table for the motorhome.

Back at the cabin we all decided a nap was in order. Couple of hours later, we emerged. More visiting and sharing history. We talked about how we all met our partners. Julie talked about her first job and the manual she edited for AI.

Before we knew it, it was dinner time. Jean and Julie cooked up a lasagna and green beans with a caprice salad. Jean shared more stories of her work with executive leaders.

We continued talking and sharing stories into the night.

The rain continued throughout the evening and by the time we retired for the evening, it had thouroughly soaked the surrounding grounds. We hastened to the motorhome where we snuggled in for a few chapters of our book, First Evidence, by Ken Goddard. 

Tomorrow we depart for places east and Diana will head home to Roseburg. Julie will stay for a few more days.