We left San Ignacio before 9 a.m., heading for Bahía de Santa Inés, only about 60 miles away. It still took us over two hours due to a treacherous mountain road as we approached the coast.
We followed a semi-truck that geared down into first gear, crawling along at about 5 mph as it navigated the narrow, steep, and winding descent. Other semis climbed past us going uphill, passing so close it felt like they could high-five each other if someone leaned out the passenger window. When traveling in a heavy vehicle, whether a semi or a motorhome, dropping into a lower gear and letting the engine brake the descent is essential. The scattered roadside memorials serve as a sobering reminder: respect the road, or it will demand it.
Imagine driving a 29-foot motorhome on a 200-story roller coaster, that’s what it feels like. And somehow, I always feel a little safer tucked in behind a big truck, even as a line of cars stacks up behind us.
We reached the coastal town of Santa Rosalía, an industrial stretch where businesses line the road along the sea. As we descended from the mountains, we passed a large landfill, plastic and paper caught in the wind, scattered along the highway less than half a mile from the ocean. A stark contrast to the beauty surrounding it.
Janice spotted a taquería on the left, and I pulled over. I walked up to a small window opening into a dim room. A young man with a long, polished black index fingernail took my order. I asked in Spanish for twelve tortillas, "doce tortillas, por favor. He seemed unsure, checked with someone inside, then returned with exactly twelve tortillas for 25 pesos.
Back in the motorhome, we continued on to Santa Inés.
The final stretch was a six-kilometer dusty, rocky road, the kind we love because it naturally filters out the less adventurous.
After about 20 minutes, we arrived at the campground. Since our last visit, they had built a new office with showers and restrooms.
I greeted Martín: “Es bueno estar de vuelta aquí. El nuevo edificio se ve muy bien.”
"It’s great to be back, the new building looks very good."
He smiled and thanked us for returning.
We asked to stay two nights: “Nos gustaría quedarnos dos noches, por favor.”
The price was the same as Paraisol Misional. 300 pesos per night (about $16.58).
There are about 15 sites along the beach, and eight were open. We chose one at the far end and quickly set up camp. Before this trip, we had always stayed at Santispac, which is beautiful but often crowded. This place feels like a hidden gem.
We took Tad down to the beach, he was ecstatic. He and I went swimming, then sat together in the shade, watching the rhythm of the sea.
Later, Janice read posts to me about the “No Kings March.” She made a sign out of cardboard and had me take a photo of her holding it with the ocean behind her. She posted it to Facebook, expressing how much she wished she could be in Roseburg with friends.
I went down to the beach and wrote “No Kings” in the sand, then filled it in with stones. Janice joined me, and together we finished it. I flew the drone and captured the moment.
As far as we know, we were the only protest in this quiet stretch of Baja.
The tide is already working to erase our message, but we will return, again and again, to remake it. To stand, in our own small way, for something larger than ourselves.
Back at camp, we relaxed under the awning. A few people walking by noticed our beach artwork.
One of them, Steve, a man in his early 70s from Bend, stopped to chat. He’s been staying at the campground since December, paying $300 a month. He’s familiar with many of the same places we’ve stayed, including Paraisol Misional and 4 Points RV Campground, our next destination.
Our conversation drifted briefly into politics. He mentioned that “Californians have ruined Bend” and that over 5,000 people had attended a “No Kings” protest, though he thought people could make better use of their time. I smiled, acknowledged his perspective, and gently steered the conversation back to Baja. He struck me as a kind man, just someone walking a different path of understanding.
We had a splendid dinner of burritos made with our newly acquired tortillas.
This morning, we watched the sun rise over the ocean, then went for a swim. We listened to podcasts, talked, and walked the beach collecting shells and stones.
John, generously shared his Starlink Wi-Fi, giving us a stronger connection to the outside world, though part of us didn’t really want it.
We watched brown pelicans diving for fish and spotted stingrays gliding just beneath the surface of the water.
Tomorrow, we head to 4 Points RV Campground in Ciudad Insurgentes, owned by our friends Juan and Pedro Pacinni, whom we met two years ago.
Closing Reflection
There’s something quietly powerful about this stretch of coast, where rugged mountains give way to open sea, where isolation becomes connection, and where even a simple message written in sand can carry meaning far beyond its brief existence. The tide may erase our words, but not the intention behind them. Like the road that brought us here, steep, winding, and uncertain, we continue forward with care, curiosity, and a steady belief that even small acts, shared in unlikely places, are part of something much larger unfolding.