Day 2: Baja ExpeditionFriday, March 20, 2026 - Red Bluff to Coalnga, CA 340 miles

We woke up at the Tehama District Fairgrounds after a quiet night—despite my usual bout of midnight restlessness. It’s one of our favorite free campsites that isn’t on public land. You simply pull up to a shady spot near a tree, enjoy plenty of great walking areas for Tad, and when morning comes, it’s easy to pull up stakes and be on the road again.

Before buying the motorhome in the fall of 2017, we were devoted tent campers—and we loved it. But as our travels expanded—trips to see my mom in Texas, weddings, and longer journeys, a motorhome began to make more sense for our lifestyle. We once took a beautiful train trip to attend my son Nick and his bride-to-be Alyssa’s wedding, leaving Eclipse, Lincoln, Comet, and Oregon at home. We missed them deeply during that month away, and that feeling helped guide our decision.

During the Umpqua Brew Fest in 2017, Guaranty RV happened to be hosting a sale at the Douglas County Fairgrounds. That’s where we met “Sexy Lexy”, a 2007 Forest River Lexington motorhome with only about 30,000 miles. It didn’t take long for us to decide. Over the past eight-plus years, Lexy has carried us, and our animals, through countless adventures. Truly, it has been one of the best investments we’ve ever made.

Granted, she’s two feet longer than our driveway, and the parking situation by the barn requires a bit of creativity. But in recognition of my ability to adapt (always a plus in my book), I’m proud to say I haven’t attempted backing her into the barn since 2018!

At some point, we may transition to a shorter motorhome. But for now, we remain deeply grateful for our time with Sexy Lexy. I couldn't be happier with the motorhome nor more grateful for all the times we have enjoyed in it.

We spent about six hours on the road today, traveling from Red Bluff to Coalinga, California. The drive was fairly uneventful, no naked pedestrians this time, though traffic was heavier than we prefer in stretches. Janice applied the “passenger brakes” a couple of times, and I accepted her feedback in the spirit it was delivered. We successfully avoided a head-on collision, with each other—and I’m proud of how we’ve learned to navigate those moments together.

Truth be told… she’s usually right. And she’s learned to deliver her observations in a way that penetrates even my thick skull. Progress all around!

Along the way, we listened to the comments the Pacific Northwest Forest Climate Alliance is submitting to the BLM regarding the proposed Resource Management Plan. It was over 90 minutes long and incredibly well done. Janice contributed sections related to the Northern Spotted Owl and Barred Owl, and I was reminded, once again, how much knowledge, care, and dedication she brings to this work. We also talked about the many ways current policies are undermining environmental protections on public lands.

The final 90 minutes of a six-hour drive are always the toughest for me. After a heavy dose of policy discussion and a bit of post-lunch drowsiness, I needed a change of pace, music! Janice pulled up KQUA.org, and we listened to our hometown station as we rolled south. Some of the newer songs were unfamiliar, so I resorted to whistling and inventing my own lyrics—which led to some… interesting interpretations, especially during the rap segments.

I may not be a fan of the late afternoon programming, but I trust in Patrick, our sometimes surly (but always dedicated) Program Manager. Tomorrow, we’re planning a “Jon-a-thon,” featuring music from our dear friend Jonathan Foster.

Tonight’s Harvest Host is the R.C. Automotive Museum in Coalinga. Bill, our contact there, was great with communication. Although the museum was closed today, we found a nice shaded spot when we arrived around 4:30 p.m.

Dinner was simple and satisfying, leftovers. Janice enjoyed her meal from last night, and I had corned beef and cabbage from St. Patrick’s Day. Tad, being an Irish Setter, wholeheartedly approved, epecially when a bit of corned beef and cabbage found its way onto his dinner.

We were also grateful to receive a couple of texts from Catherine in response to our updates. As I shared yesterday, she and Nathan are very much in our thoughts.

I’ll close with a reflection on the moment we are living in. There is so much beyond our control, and the challenges facing our country, and the world, feel unprecedented. But we are not powerless.

Do good work.

Stand up for the voiceless.

Refuse to give in to hate.

If we earnestly seek the goodness in one another, regardless of political perspective, we will find it. And in that shared humanity, we can still find a way forward… together.

Day 1 – 2026 Baja Expedition: Red Bluff, California - 280 miles

The first day of our 2026 Baja Expedition started very early. As is too often the case these days, I woke at 12:30 a.m., my mind full of thoughts. I’ve also been dealing with persistent itchiness in my right arm and thigh, remnants of a poison oak encounter back in late January. I suspect it was aggravated by the two shingles vaccinations we received in January and March. I’ve been treating it with oatmeal lotion and an ice pack. It’s a minor irritation, but the itchiness can be maddening, one of those things you simply can’t think your way out of.

About thirty minutes into the first day, I got up, settled into my recliner with an ice pack, and wrote a Facebook message to our dear friend Catherine, who is in the final days of hospice care due to cancer.

Janice and I, along with many others, have been doing what we can to support Catherine and her son, Nathan. As is so often the case, in our efforts to give, we have received so much more in return. It is an honor to walk alongside them during this time.

My thoughts were focused on what will likely be our last time with Catherine in this form.

I remember vividly the moment she first told me she was battling a life-threatening illness. It was after a summer gathering at our dear friends Ken and Jenny Carloni’s home several years ago. I helped her carry a few things to her car, and she shared her burden with me. I told her then, something I believe with every fiber of my being—that life is never terminal. That the essence of who we are has no beginning and no end. That we are all part of something greater, connected to a sentient universe, and that what we call a lifetime is just one expression of that existence. I hugged her and thanked her for trusting me with her truth.

In the years that followed, Catherine held the cancer at bay and continued to live a full and meaningful life. We shared many special moments—Thanksgivings, Fourth of July gatherings, time with the Carlonis, evenings with our friends Jeri and Woody, and events at Umpqua Watersheds.

We were always grateful for more time.

Last summer, she told us the cancer had progressed. Janice and several close friends began taking her to treatments in Bend. I always felt that Janice’s time with Catherine was as healing for her as it was for Catherine.

On our final day in Roseburg before this trip, we brought corned beef and cabbage, leftover from St. Patrick’s Day—to Catherine and Nathan. We sat and talked. Catherine shared that she was now receiving morphine around the clock to manage the pain. She gave us a small booklet explaining what to expect in these final days.

It was hard to leave. But we focused on being present, letting them both know how deeply we love them.

They were, and still are, in my thoughts at 2:00 a.m. on Day 2.

I want to share the message I wrote to Catherine, because it captures what she and Nathan mean to us, and I don’t want to lose that part of this journey:

"Early morning thoughts…

I often feel restless before hitting the road, trying to understand why we are leaving our beloved Umpqua—our home, our friends. This time is the hardest, because I know you will be leaving us soon.

And yet, I feel more certain than ever that taking this journey is the right thing to do.

Thank you for sharing the booklet that helps us understand your road ahead. I was with my mom five years ago as she passed, and I still feel her presence every day. I feel your presence now—and I know I will continue to feel it after you’ve gone, as will all who love you.

In my heart, it feels like we have known each other long before we met. As we drove away from your home, I had the sense that you were there when I was born, perhaps a reflection of your life’s work bringing children into this world.

You are an angel to me, Catherine. You always will be. Your grace and your love will continue to bring comfort.

I am saddened that you are leaving this life with so much physical pain. Your bravery and grace during this time mean more than you can know to all of us who love you.

We will carry you with us as we journey south, seeing beautiful things, renewing the love Janice and I share, and creating space from the heaviness of this moment in history.

We love you and Nathan dearly, and we will hold you both in our hearts as we travel toward new horizons.

Much love,

Kasey"

After getting back to sleep, I woke again at 6:30 a.m. Janice had already been up for some time, working on comments for the BLM’s revised Resource Management Plan. I am continually inspired by her dedication and her willingness to stand up for the land through her work with Umpqua Watersheds.

I spent the morning finishing preparations for the trip—vacuuming the motorhome, washing the floors, and packing the final items. It has long been my goal to be fully ready and on the road by 9:00 a.m. We haven’t quite achieved that yet, but we’ve learned not to stress about it. We move when we’re ready.

By 11:30, we were set to move the motorhome down to the county road so we could load the e-bikes. Our driveway is steep, and the rig is long,  so we drag when we pull ot of the driveway. Janice's brother, David welded steel wheels on the back of the motorhome but the bike rack drags so we have to put it on the flat area on the county road. I drove the motorhome down while Janice followed in the Escape with the bike rack.

After getting everything secured, we returned briefly to the house, loaded the bikes, and officially began our journey.

We made quick stops at Costco for gas and U-Haul for propane, and by 12:30 p.m., we were heading south on I-5 toward our first destination: the Tehama District Fairgrounds in Red Bluff, California, where we would meet our friends Steve and Pattie for dinner.

The drive, about 280 miles over five and a half hours, was mostly uneventful. One highlight: we were delighted to find that we could still clearly pick up KQUA 90.5 well past Canyonville. 

Janice read the news aloud, and we listened to music along the way.

There was, however, one unforgettable moment. About an hour north of Redding, just past Mount Shasta, I noticed someone running across the highway. As we approached, we realized he was completely naked, except for a pair of sandals. He paused briefly at the median, waiting for a break in traffic, his bare backside greeting us as we passed at 65 miles per hour.I gave a quick honk. We’ll never know why the naked man crossed the road… but it certainly added a bit of unexpected color to the journey.

We arrived in Red Bluff and had a wonderful dinner at Carlito’s with Steve and Pattie. It was so good to reconnect—there’s something about being on the road that opens space for deeper conversation.

After dinner, we made our way to the fairgrounds, set up camp, and settled in for the night. It was quiet and peaceful, and I slept well… until 12:30 a.m. And so, now, at nearly 3:00 a.m., after writing this, taking Tad for a walk, and finally feeling the itchiness subside, I’ll return to bed, ready to dream about the adventure ahead.

Day 41: Home

 

The camping spot had some nice trails in the area so we ventured out with Tad to get some exercise and give him plenty of opportunity to empty his bowels and bladder. It was cold but the sun peaked out fairly often. 

The pets vied for the premier spot on the final leg of our journey. We stopped one more time for gas and the Crater Lake Junction. I picked up some coffee for both of us to be sure we remained alert.

It really starts feeling like home when you travel the North Umpqua with it's spectacular views and rock formations. 

Even in it's destruction, the recovery of the Archie Creek fire area was in beautiful fall foliage.

Our journey successfully ended and the sky gave us a colorful "good night" complete with fall foliage of our own.

The next day would be dictated by the accumulation of laundry and mail, some things often neglected for other more pleasurable activities. But it eventually catches up to you.

In addition to death and taxes, laundry and mail should be listed as inevitabilities.

Day 40: almost home

 

I woke up with a little face sticking out from under the blankets. So cute, but also reminded me of the gremlins characters.

I hated to move her but we needed to get going. Morning was breaking and we had to make up some miles. I scurried about, getting the coffee going, taking Tad for a walk, and preparing some breakfast. We had yogurt, bananas, and granola. Since we are getting close to home we need to eat the food we have. The Wendover Airfield Museum is on the border of Utah and Nevada. Just a few hundred feet from Nevada. You could tell because the usual landscape of flat terrain for an airport gave way to a towering casino complete with glitzy lights alternating and announcing the excitement that you might find inside. The Casino would have been a cheap place to eat no doubt. 

As we embarked, I decided to lie down and get a little rest so that I could take over driving at some point and make some tracks. Kasey had a little trouble finding the freeway entrance. I guess Google maps was not awake yet either, I think she provided vital information about 15 seconds too late. Otherwise, the day began as others had recently, hitting the highway through unpopulated areas and scenery to keep your mind occupied.

Somewhere near Golconda, NV the traffic slowed in both lanes and Kasey slowed to nearly a stop. I woke to hear a regular ticking sound. I wasn't sure where it was coming from and tried to determine where it was coming from using the process of elimination. Eventually I opened the window that is on the drivers side of the motorhome just above the back tire. You know, the one that had break work and new tires put on. There was no one next to us and I ascertained that Kasey was in the fast lane but doing about 30mph in traffic. I got up to go tell him that something was making a ticking sound and it was coming from us outside, but I thought I should pee first. While in the restroom, the ticking sound was replaced by a final click and the sound of metal rolling away.

Since he could not hear me the first time I said it, I made my way toward Kasey to inform him that I suspect that we just lost our hubcap. With no where to pull over and nearly a half mile already travelled we could do nothing to retrieve it. I dropped a pin on the google maps and called the Les Schwab to explain that we would be needing a new hub cap when we got home. A very nice and apologetic employee indicated that he would be sure to record the information so we would not have to explain the event.

We had no idea where we were going to spend the night. I took over driving while Kasey slept and we made our way through northern Nevada. Somewhere north of Winnemucca, we needed to turn left toward Denio. The road was completely straight for miles. We stopped in Denio to change drivers and continue toward Lakeview. We could have stopped at a campground that we had been to before, Virgin Valley in Nevada, but we thought since it was about 2 pm, we should continue onward. We saw a scenic waterfall next to the road and stopped to take a picture. The downgrade at Doherty mountain has been mentioned before and others consider it the scariest road, probably due to no guardrails and steep dropoff. 

As we travelled toward Lakeview, we saw prescribed burns along the hillsides. I thought we could hook up with Nathan, Catherine Paul's son who lives in Lakeview, and works for the Oregon Department of Forestry on the wildfire suppression and fire fighting. But he didn't answer the texts and we didn't now if he was even in town. Turns out he was in the field tending to some prescribed burns.

We stopped at the Lakeview Fairgrounds to dump our septic at their new dump station. It is $10, which seems to be a bit high, but we got it done and would not need to do that tomorrow.

Still no word from Nahan so we headed out and I started checking possible camping spots on iOverlander and there was one listed about a half hour outside of Lakeview. Tad was getting antsy and we asked him to wait several times. We should have listened to him. When we pulled off, the spot was open, and close to the road. Not really our ideal spot. We decided to proceed a little further on the forest service road. It was paved and fairly level so I thought it was promising. By now Tad was panting excessively and looking uncomfortable. We will let you out soon, buddy I told him. Well about a mile down the road, he could no longer wait. Emergency! Luckily no traffic and for the first time, I let him out the front door instead of the back door. Luckily, the offending material was on top of a carpet we lay across the floor. 

I took off to be with Tad while he ran and squatted every few minutes until he no longer was squatting. Meanwhile Kasey had the unenviable job of cleaning the interior disaster. Which really turned out to be minor. In my meandering with Tad, I spotted a perfect camping location. So you see, it all works out. 

Comet was able to wonder in this nice spot. We saw one vehicle the rest of the evening.

Day 39: Stuck in a time loop. Somewhere in Utah

 

After finding out that our brakes needed replacing, we headed back to another long stint at the local Les Schwab Tire place. This looks like a fairly new place but it was getting busy. We had no alternative. This time we left the pets in the motorhome. I brought my computer into the waiting area. They have a nice setup for just that purpose with plug ins and free wifi. We were there for several hours so I got some work done. Still, it isn't distraction free.

It was cold out and when I walked over to Walmart to get a few cans of dog food to hold us over, I saw hoarfrost on the grass. Hoarfrost makes use of the moisture in the atmosphere to grow and interlock, making for a dramatic frost sculptures on anything solid  even blades of grass. 

Temperatures and dew point have to be below freezing, in order for the water vapor in the atmosphere to go straight from a gas to a solid, creating those white, interlocking patterns of frost. The crystals that form are as if someone sprayed water during extremely cold temperatures when no liquid could pool and freeze.

It was warm in the sun, but when there was shade, it was very cool. Winter is coming.

Before long, we were making our way north again, following the route we drove the previous day for a while. When we got near Provo, we were taking a bypass to the big city so we would not get into rush hour. We felt we could save some time that way, but I looked up in time to misdirect Kasey back on the freeway south. This particular highway has no exits for 15 miles! Arghhhh. We had to do a big circle. What a waste. Kasey was very gracious about my misdirection and took it in stride even though I felt we were in a time loop.

The salt flats of Utah are one long straight road and provide for some interesting backdrops.

We arrived at the Wendover Air Field Museum after it closed, but because it is a Harvest Host, we set up for the overnight stay. We ate our leftovers for dinner, played some cribbage, and turned in.

Day 38: Tires and brakes.

Morning was breaking spectacularly. It was cold. I put the bright colored coat on Tad and headed out to brave the elements. As the coffee percolated, Kasey was tucked snuggly in bed awaiting the return of the two of us and the weather report. 

It's pretty cold, I said. 

We got ourselves moving preparing for a long day of driving to make our way back to our home in Roseburg, OR.

The scenery was awesome as usual and we were making good time. The miles just rolling away as we listened to audio books.

 

To save time, we decided to get a bite to eat at the same place we got gas. I guess fuel is fuel. The stop was Scipio, Utah. Somewhere south of Provo.

The gas station also had a fast food component. I think it was a Wendy's and I got the chicken wrap. Closest I could come to something good for you. While we were waiting for the food, a gentleman that was filling the window washing containers with water was still milling about our motorhome. I told Kasey that maybe we should have moved it out of the gas stall. It wasn't busy and Kasey said nah, it is alright. I went back to the motorhome first while Kasey was inside. I asked the guy if he needed anything and he said that he was waiting for my husband. I asked why and he told me our tire looked like it was bubbling and could separate. I looked at his shirt and saw the Michelin logo on the upper left of his shirt. I said, gosh, know where there might be a Les Schwab around because that is where we got the tires last year. He indicate that none were close but he had a shop nearby and pointed to his shop. I said that I would talk it over with Kasey when he returned.

He also stopped Kasey and told him the same information only Kasey went ahead and said that we would be right over. 

I had found the closest Les Schwab. One was near Provo north of us and when I called to talk about the situation, I called one that was actually south of us, but I didn't know that. They had replacement tires available. Upon finding out this information, Kasey waved off the Michelin man and said we would be heading for Les Schwab 34 miles away. His name was Randy by the way, because Kasey typically asks folks for their name. He probably knows the name of the Wendy's staff as well. 

I ended up finding out that the Les Schwab was south and decided it was closer, even if it was back the way we came. We knew that we would need a place so a bar called Bar 86 was a Harvest Host and we sent a request for a stay which was approved right away. It was only a mile from the tire place. We got there and we got right in. Comet got to get out and wander around and she was very interested in the Les Schwab service trucks.

When they took the tires off, they mentioned that our brakes were very worn and needed to be replaced. They could get the part by morning. So instead of getting going early to make up time, we were going to be right back at Les Schwab in Richfield, Utah. So off to the Bar 86 we went to play some cards, watch the World Series and have some local food. They had quite a menu and the guy at Les Schwab said the chicken quesadilla was great so that is what I got. Unfortunately, they dropped half of it and had to cook another one. They brought me the half they didn't drop and would box up the other one for take out. Kasey got the garbage can nacho's which was enough for 4 people. We ended up getting several meals out of that purchase. The owner bought us some shots which was very nice and when we went over to say thank you, we got onto the subject of dogs. He was a big dog fan and showed us his wall of dog pictures. He even said that we could bring our dog in. As usual, Tad was a big hit. He is a great ambassador. Always willing to get attention from any stranger who wants to venture over.

It was a very quiet place and we slept well.

Day 37: Leaving Aztec. Headed Home.

In the morning, we were treated to another yummy breakfast of French toast, ample coffee, and wonderous conversation. Jim is getting ready to travel to Cape Town, South Africa in a few days and he is preparing for his trip. The pets got a nice morning walk of freedom in his well fenced back yard.  We missed seeing the Gambel's Quail, but Tad and I heard them in the morning when we went out just at sunrise. I think I may have lost interest in tracking the quail when the coyote's were howling within a quarter mile. Tad gave a few muffled "ruffs" to let me know he was not happy with those noises.

Jim presented us with a few more novels that he liked but did not want to hang onto since he read them all and he thought we would enjoy the author. So we are set.

As we ventured north into Utah, the scenery became spectacular. We took a highway northeast out of Moab toward Cisco and along the Colorado River. The scenery was spectacular and we were wondering why were heading toward a town called Cisco to stay when there were so many awesome looking spots to just spend the night. We stopped often to take in the views and get some pictures. 

This part of the landscape has a way of making you feel insignificant when you think of the eons of time that sculpted these formations in the surroundings. It also makes you think about how awesome nature is.

We decided to stop and explore what a few of the campsites looked like. The government is on furlough and we had no idea what the situation would be. I tried out my panoramic camera and it was really very cool. It actually worked better on social media where you can just move your phone around as if you are right there. But here is what it looks like in a still picture.

This one is with the motorhome in it.

The campground was about half full but not surprising since it is late October and it will be near freezing tonight.

We came out of the canyon to some nice views of the river and the colors of the changing foliage.

Cisco, Utah is a town that has slowly become more of a Ghost Town. Population 4. The store is the only establishment and it has some interesting things in it. A combination of a thrift store, mercantile, and grocery store. We got there right before it closed at 530pm. The Interstate 70 is just to the north and when it was finished, it by-passed Cisco, so you have to have a real reason to go to Cisco. We had a reservation with Harvest Host. There was still some light so we walked around the "town" and read all the "no trespassing" and "keep out" signs. We covered the town in 2 blocks. It must not have been much before the interstate was put in. One of the claims to fame is that part of the filming of Thelma And Louise movie was nearby. It also has access to the Colorado River. A bus went by while we were there and it did not stop. It had some markings indicating an outdoor adventure type of business. I consulted the map and the road that they came from has access to a campground and landings no doubt for river rafting.

It is setting up to be cold tonight. The wind is starting to howl. But it was not too bad as we pulled 2 of the 3 slide-outs in to conserve heat, put a coat on Tad and wore our long johns.

 

Day 36: Beyond Aztec: Day of adventure with Ramakka Adventure Tours

We started the day with some of Jim Ramakka's famous french toast. He makes it with sourdough bread and cinnamon. We had great conversation about the area and his work as well as all the great things he has done and the people he has met through his career. We decided to head out on our adventures. We headed out to the Salmon Ruins to see some artifacts and some ruins from the ancient people that lived in the area. As usual, I think we were spending too much time since we have so much to see today. But it was interesting. They knew Jim well here too. A picture was hanging on the wall that he had taken. A night sky and moon with red rock formations.  It was very well displayed using the metal printing process. It made for a shiny picture.

The ruins were very interesting and they described the area in detail. 

Tad was even allowed to walk around outside.

Next we headed to some of the areas where Jim had worked when he was a biologist for the BLM. He worked mostly from memory as we drove these back roads outside of Aztec and along the San Juan River. The drilling sites were everywhere and the "footpad" as he called them, was centered with a cylindrical storage tank. Lots of pipes and signs accompanied these structures.

The landscape was amazing and filled with fall colors. Jim said that we had timed it well as the leaves were at their peak.  We couldn't pass up a nice picture of the colors and so we stopped frequently. When Kasey failed to attach his seat belt, the ingenious system of this newer car faithfully reminded the passenger of the infraction with growing volume if the passenger kept ignoring it. And if that was not enough, Jim made sure to let Kasey know of his failure to heed the warning.

The roads were not too bad but as we were approaching what we thought was the cliff with all of the petroglyphs, the roads started to become a little less friendly. At one point when we felt as if we may be in an orchestrated Subaru commercial, we decided that we could not take the chance and we walked.

It was a nice walk but our petroglyphs awaited us elsewhere.

Jim knew exactly where to go but he thought we would run out of time so he opted for some petroglyphs close to the road and still spectacular.

The rock formations are just amazing. I think I see owls in them.

We had enough time to stop at the Wines of San Juan for some wine tasting.

It is a nice comfortable looking spot and they had just had party the night before so everything was quiet. 

We had time to goof off with their swings and pick up a pizza at the local grocery store just before the sun set.