Day 10 San Ignacio March 13

It is funny the things that you remember from your last adventure. This campground in San Ignacio has showers, but the hot water runs out fairly quickly. The campground is nearly full and I am amazed at how quiet it is. Maybe there just aren't many young party animals, but it was dead quiet all night.  Not even a dog barking .There are plenty of dogs but they are all likely tucked in bed. The traffic has ceased as well. Just like last year, the great Horned owl pair let us know they were around. With all the campers I just knew that taking a shower was out of the question unless I got in there first thing in the morning. So right as the day started and the Burro brayed, I got up, started the coffee, took the dogs out, and gathered my clothes, shampoo, and towel and headed for a shower. Yep, it was hot. I love it when a plan comes together.

The other thing I remember was the little knats. I got so many bites on my ankles over night because I hang my feet out from under the covers. I made a conscious effort to keep them covered.
It was a little on the cool side in the morning. We planned to go biking later. We got our laundry together and took it over to be washed. They wash, dry, and fold for a fee but it isn't much.  Then we took the dogs for a walk. They always get attention. Irish Setters are not common around these parts. The high voice of young women when they see them saying "perritos" and Bonita. Everyone wants to take a picture or pet them. We noticed the hotel that wasn't quite finished last year is complete and has a nice entryway mural.  

Lincoln was having a bit of a challenge walking so we headed back to our camping spot and Kasey prepared for a zoom call.  Right about then the power failed and so did the wifi. So he used his phone's Internet. He got to catch up with Umpqua Watersheds stuff with 3 phone calls today. A busy guy.
I got the bikes ready so we could take off as soon as he was done with his second call. We headed south away from town toward the lagoon. We were not planning to go all the way but we made it quite far with our new Aventon ebikes. Wow, is it fun. The power assist sure takes the agony out of the hills. We felt like we were flying at times.

We came back to town where we sat in the square and watched a group of motorcyclists come into town as Kasey drank a margarita and we had some chips and guacamole.

A couple of women nearby started reading something about the crossing into Mexico and I thought she was reading our blog but it turns out our experience at the border was not unique. Their friends did the same thing we did: missed the office to get our FMM and circled around until they parked and walked back.
Back at camp the wind was picking up and things were falling out of the trees. The workers here keep the placed picked up and by the end of the day they had it cleaned up.
Our laundry arrived late that night and surprised us because we thought the power outage put them behind. We were up playing cards. Well, the campground is all quiet again and the crickets are all that I can hear. Nice.

Day 9 Guerro Negro to San Ignacio, March 12

We arrived at one of our favorite towns in Baja, San Ignacio. We are staying two nights at the Paraiso Misional RC campground, nestled amidst date palms with a backdrop of cacti and lava hills, the campground offers a unique blend of natural beauty and cultural history. It is only 3 blocks from the village square.

San Ignacio, located in Baja California Sur, Mexico, is a town rich in history. Founded in 1728 by Jesuit missionary Juan Bautista Luyando, it became a significant mission area. The Mission San Ignacio Kadakaamán, constructed in 1786, stands as a testament to colonial architecture with its baroque stone facade. This mission played a pivotal role in the spread of Christianity among the indigenous Cochimí people.

The town's central courtyard, lined with ancient trees, offers a serene environment for reflection and relaxation. This area serves as a gathering place for locals and visitors alike, providing a glimpse into the community's vibrant culture and history.

Staying at Paraisol Misional provides the opportunity to immerse ourselves in the rich tapestry of history and nature. Tomorrow we will hop on our electric bikes and explore the area to see what we can discover. I'll also get some pictures from my drone of the area. We love adventure and continue to be grateful for the kind hospitality of our hosts.

Day 8: Catavina to Guerro Negro March 11 Tuesday

I woke up early to hear a few sprinkles and jumped up to get the bikes, the extra power pack, toolbag, and solar panel under the awning. It turned out to be not much and even though the clouds looked threatening, nothing much materialized except a drizzle.  It let up enough for us to bicycle over to the restaurant and sit down for breakfast, an internet update and a call to Mike to ask if he could water our plants next week. I wanted to bring my own coffee but Kasey said we could get some at breakfast. When we sat down and saw the Nescafe jar, I knew we made the wrong choice.
Our cook Matilda made us huevos a la Mexicana which was scrambled eggs and onions with a side of beans. The fresh tortillas were delicious. Hot sauce would have been a good addition. I finished eating by the time she brought the cups of hot water for the Nescafe. Wanting to be sure of what I remembered about Nescafe, I took a couple of sips. But I could not drink anymore than that. I knew my real coffee awaited me in my super insulated cup.
It looked like the rain was really coming and we did not want to bike in the rain so we asked for the bill, well, Kasey did since my Spanish is very minimal. We had no pesos because of the problems we had getting currency exchanged and she wanted 40 dollars to which we protested. Even a 20 dollar bill seemed excessive for what we got but we figured we were making friends.
As we were rushing around to get everything put back together, we lost sight of which way Comet went. Tad and Lincoln were roaming about and she was nowhere in sight. After a few false starts to get the bikes loaded and locked into place, we put the cover on because of the impending rain. That was a learning curve too and not sure it is secured the way it is supposed to be attached but nothing a few bungees can't take care of.

Still no Comet and because she is deaf I felt that I needed.to be sure she was not out of our sphere of influence. So I asked Tad to find his sister which he immediately headed for the arroyo and the vegetation near it. He sniffed in one direction, stopped to smell more deeply, then immediately change to another direction doing this until he zig zagged his way to catch up to her current location. What a good dog. I convinced her to walk my way back to the motorhome. Upon leaving the cover of the vegetation and seeing Kasey by the motorhome she sprinted toward him across the opening until she was safely by his side and ambled back inside.

Catavina is way in the mountains and there are no gas stations for a hundred plus miles. We probably would have been reminded of that if we had our Baja guidebook that is no doubt sitting safely on the counter in Roseburg. We wouldn't want it get it dirty or lose it.
We had a third of a tank of gas which should get us 133 miles and the sign said gas in 198 km which is 123 miles. Not much room for error but we live on the edge and decided that we could make it.
Take it slow, don't over accelerate or hard break if possible. I read to Kasey along the drizzly drive. When we were under a quarter of a tank we started wondering how far now to the gas station. Again, that guidebook might have been useful since we had no cell reception for days and across all of those miles.

We came upon the road that we labeled the road de Caca. There were actually workers repairing portions of it and sometimes we had to wait. Other slowdowns included a checkpoint where some nice young men in military fatigues and carrying a rifle said they wanted to take a look inside. I opened the door and he was greeted by Tad which made him smile and declare perrito, which Kasey said meant puppy. That was all he needed to see. Away we went.
We were getting close to Guerro Negro by the minute and hoped there was gas before then because we were now down to one eighth a tank.  50 miles of fuel.  No shoulder if we needed to pull off and trucks claiming their entire lane plus mirror width.

There are not too many more towns on the basic Google map that I could follow along on the phone.
The low fuel warning comes on and we are starting to be a wee bit concerned when in the distance is the little blue sign with the universal symbol for gasoline. We roll into the gas station and our day is saved. That won't happen again.  We clocked 423 miles on that tank of gas. About 23 miles more than we usually get.
One more stop before Guerrero Negro is a toll road. I mentioned not having any Mexican currency and when the toll collector asked for 50 pesos, Kasey startes counting out the coins that we still had from last year. 10, 20, 30, 40, and he just could not come up with another 10 and so while the cars started to pile up behind us, the toll collector waived his hand with that's fine when Kasey dropped another 5 pesos in his hand. Get outa here, he seemed to indicate.
The first goal in Guerrero Negro was to exchange some dollars, then go to the camping spot near Mario's and have dinner. But most of all, Kasey wanted that Margherita. We have internet so we caught up on messages and called to check in with Diana. Last year she was with us when we stopped in this same campground.

Day 7: Exploring Cataviña: Petroglyphs, Cactus, and a Perfect Baja Evening March 10, Monday

After covering nearly 1,200 miles since leaving Oregon, we’ve settled into the rugged beauty of Cataviña, a quiet oasis in the heart of Baja California’s central desert. Our home for the next couple of nights is Rancho Santa Ynez, a rustic yet welcoming campground surrounded by towering cacti, massive boulders, and the kind of solitude that reminds you how vast and wild this landscape truly is.

The morning greeted us with crisp desert air, and after a slow start, we set out on foot to explore the nearby arroyo, a dry riverbed cutting through the desert. The terrain is rocky, dotted with towering cardón cacti, ocotillos stretching toward the sky, and strange, Dr. Seuss-like boojum trees. Each step revealed the delicate balance of life thriving in this arid land—tiny lizards darting between stones, birds calling from hidden perches, and the quiet hum of the wind weaving through the landscape.

Later in the afternoon, we hopped on our electric bikes to venture farther out to a nature area showcasing some of the region’s most striking petroglyphs. Carved into boulders by ancient hands, these symbols whisper stories of the past, their meanings lost to time but still holding an undeniable presence. It’s humbling to stand before them, imagining the people who once roamed this land, leaving behind these echoes of their existence.

As the sun dipped lower, painting the sky in warm hues, we returned to Rancho Santa Ynez for a home-cooked meal—a simple yet deeply satisfying end to the day. There’s something about sharing a meal in a place like this, surrounded by nature and far from the usual noise of the world, that makes everything taste better.

Tomorrow, we’ll soak in more of Cataviña’s magic before continuing south on our journey toward Cabo Pulmo. But for now, we’re embracing the quiet beauty of this place, grateful for the adventure and After covering nearly 1,200 miles since leaving Oregon, we’ve settled into the rugged beauty of Cataviña, a quiet oasis in the heart of Baja California’s central desert. Our home for the next couple of nights is Rancho Santa Ynez, a rustic yet welcoming campground surrounded by towering cacti, massive boulders, and the kind of solitude that reminds you how vast and wild this landscape truly is.

The morning greeted us with crisp desert air, and after a slow start, we set out on foot to explore the nearby arroyo, a dry riverbed cutting through the desert. The terrain is rocky, dotted with towering cardón cacti, ocotillos stretching toward the sky, and strange, Dr. Seuss-like boojum trees. Each step revealed the delicate balance of life thriving in this arid land—tiny lizards darting between stones, birds calling from hidden perches, and the quiet hum of the wind weaving through the landscape.

Later in the afternoon, we hopped on our electric bikes to venture farther out to a nature area showcasing some of the region’s most striking petroglyphs. Carved into boulders by ancient hands, these symbols whisper stories of the past, their meanings lost to time but still holding an undeniable presence. It’s humbling to stand before them, imagining the people who once roamed this land, leaving behind these echoes of their existence.

As the sun dipped lower, painting the sky in warm hues, we returned to Rancho Santa Ynez for a home-cooked meal—a simple yet deeply satisfying end to the day. There’s something about sharing a meal in a place like this, surrounded by nature and far from the usual noise of the world, that makes everything taste better.

Tomorrow, we’ll soak in more of Cataviña’s magic before continuing south on our journey toward Cabo Pulmo. But for now, we’re embracing the quiet beauty of this place, grateful for the adventure and the moments of wonder it continues to bring.

 moments of wonder it continues to bring.

Day 5: Entering Baja 2.0 March 8, Saturday

We got up early prepared to make a run for the border. The day was starting out with great weather for once. We walked out to the fields to let Tad stretch his legs. Our hosts were not stirring yet. We fired up the generator to make our egg sandwich breakfast after checking that generators were okay at the early hour.
We next needed a sanidump and luckily a cheap one was on the way to Mexicali where we were planning to cross. We spent a few minutes to gather our paperwork and prepare for the third degree.

 After reading that RV's would find it a bit tougher at Mexicali West, we headed to Mexicali East. Much more room for a larger vehicle. About 2 miles from the crossing, there was a long line but it quickly became apparent that the line was for trucks and so we sailed into the crossing in no time. We were directed to a parking spot but no one came over and the Spanish speaker in the group went to find out what we were supposed to do. He did that after stopping in the middle of the road blocking the exit so he hustled to get out of the way. Quickly we were in Mexico with no one asking to see our passport. Of there is a hard way, we found it. Getting the correct form completed couldn't have been easier but noooo, we had to turn it into an adventure with a couple of stops to try and find the correct office and realizing that it was back where we came from.
After a couple of aborted attempts to find the building and learning that we were going to be put into a line going back to the USA, we decided to park and walk. Our journey ended right where they had us park when we first came across the border. How easy it could have been.

Well, the next task was a currency exchange. Banks are closed on Saturday for the most part and we didn't want much more of Mexicali so we headed south hoping to find something in San Felipe. The ATM would not take our new bank card so we could not get Mexican currency. We did see a nice restaurant and grabbed a good meal that would suffice for lunch and dinner.
San Felipe was a lot less busy than the last time we were through but we did not feel compelled to play tourist. So we headed off toward our camp spot.
I read some of the book that Diana gave us until Comet wanted some lap time.
So far, we have not had any hassles and we found a quiet spot to camp over night at Campo Baluga.
We haven't had any wifi for a few nights so I am getting concerned about the duty I have to write comments on the NW Forest Plan due soon. Today, no Internet for the later part of the day. We will find some time and Internet to do that soon. 

Day 4:March 7 – From Quail Run to Bel Cielo: A Journey Southward

We said our goodbyes and exchanged warm hugs with our dear friends Al, Trudy, and Tyson before heading south toward Bel Cielo in Brawley, California. The drive took over six hours, winding through steep and twisting roads as we left the hills of Lake Hughes behind.

Along the way, Janice continued reading The Whole Story – A Walk Around the World by Ffyona Campbell, the remarkable tale of a British woman who walked across every continent. We also passed the time with music, thoughtful conversations about our journey ahead, and reflections on the current state of the world—particularly the troubling state of politics in the United States.

Traveling serves as more than an escape for us. It is a way to recharge, to find the strength to keep fighting for what we believe in, even as so many of the protections we’ve worked hard to uphold—clean air, clean water, endangered species—seem increasingly under threat. It can feel overwhelming at times, knowing that change doesn’t happen overnight. But being on the road reminds us why we care so deeply. It strengthens our resolve and reaffirms the importance of the connections we share—with each other, our friends, and the communities we hold dear.

We arrived at Bel Cielo around 5 p.m., eager to stretch our legs after the long drive. The boys—Lincoln and Tad—were thrilled for a walk, sniffing out the new terrain, while Comet settled into the comfort of the motorhome. After setting up camp, we enjoyed a quiet dinner under the evening sky, reflecting on the day and the journey ahead.

Before bed, I read to Janice from The Housekeeper by Freida McFadden, a psychological thriller that has kept us both captivated. “Welcome to the family,” Nina Winchester says as I shake her elegant, manicured hand… The chapters are short—perfect for those restless nights when worries creep in about the world, the challenges at Umpqua Watersheds, and the uncertain future. Reading together, even in the middle of the night, offers a small refuge—a way to step outside our thoughts, even if just for a little while.

This trip is more than a getaway. It’s a chance to disconnect from the chaos and reconnect with what matters most: each other, our shared purpose, and the simple joys of discovery. Traveling with Lincoln, Tad, and Comet makes every experience richer—we see the world through their eyes as well as our own.

Life is great, and we are grateful.

Day 3, March 6. From an Organic farm to Ostrich Country

After taking Lincoln, Tad, and Al and Trudy’s dog, Tyson, for a long morning walk, we said our goodbyes to our new friends at Lucero Organic Farms in Galt, California. With the motorhome packed and ready, we hit the road, bound for Quail Run in Lake Hughes.

The journey was long—over seven hours—winding through hilly terrain that tested our patience but rewarded us with stunning scenery. As we arrived at Quail Run, a working ostrich farm and Harvest Host location, the weather took a dramatic turn. Snowflakes started falling, and the wind picked up, adding to the remote and almost otherworldly feel of the place. The farm, surrounded by dusty dirt roads and rolling hills, felt like a step back in time.

Shortly after we settled in, Al, Trudy, and Tyson arrived, and we reunited once more for an evening together. As the sun dipped below the mountains, casting a golden glow over the landscape, we gathered in our motorhome for dinner. A delicious meal, good conversation, and a few adult beverages set the tone for the night. We capped it off with a lively game of Spite and Malice, laughing and sharing stories as the cards flew.

These first days of our Baja adventure have been even more special because we’ve been able to share them with dear friends. Tomorrow, however, our paths diverge—Al and Trudy will head east toward Arizona, while we continue south to Brawley, just 30 minutes from the Mexicali border crossing. New adventures await, but we’ll always cherish these moments on the road with friends.

Day 2: Red Bluff to Galt, CA March 5 Wednesday

After leaving Red Bluff our destination was the old highway 99 south through the California valley. We hit a little traffic through Sacramento but got back to a good flow of traffic in no time. Traveling with lots of trucks can be good and bad. They know when there are issues ahead and know the efficient routes. But, their confidence can sometimes nearly kill them and others. We saw our share of near misses and were fortunate to be paying attention to other drivers.
Lucero Farms in Galt Ca.was our nightly destination. it would be a 5 hour plus driving day.The Harvest Host is an organic farm with free range chickens and 20 acres of land. We ate a healthy salad for dinner. Al and Trudy also bought some delicious greens.

Tad and Tyson could not run free because of the chickens so they settled for short boxing matches. The Lucero's dog Hazel was smitten with Lincoln and vice versa. Their cat made it perfectly clear that Tad was not his friend. The low slow growl that the cat emitted when Tad got too close was understood by this curious canine.
We had a couple of zoom meetings. First with the radio committee to discuss the progress made on the antenna. I had a zoom with the Conservation committee and Al and Trudy came over after that for a couple of games of spite and malice before turning in.

It was a cold night but we slept well. Comet loves to snuggle and she was happy to get under the covers for extended periods. 

Day 1:Baja 2 point oh March 4 Tuesday

All of our energy was put into finishing tasks for Umpqua Watersheds, getting some of our Oak Restoration work at home completed and making sure that we had our place taken care of while we are gone. 

The new radio antenna installation for KQUA 90.5 came down to the wire giving us stressful days and restless sleep. We made the deadline! 

Now, getting ready for Baja was difficult since we did not have our motorhome back until the day before we left. The expensive repairs to the slide-outs and the floor added more to the anxiety. Other repairs ensued with the drawer and a couple of cabinet doors and misc annoying things to deal with at the last minute. The RV repair place really worked hard and we have a few things that we will need to resolve that are not quite right.

With our list in hand, we were able to ready the motorhome and load what we needed. The new ebikes have never been on the motorhome and the operation of the bike rack became a challenge that costed us an hour and resulted in some frustrating moments.

We were close to calling it a day but we pressed on. Worried about dragging the new bikerack at the bottom of the driveway, we opted to drive to the nearest intersection with the motorhome and the Honda. There we would move the bikes and rack from the Honda to the motorhome, ne of us would drive the Honda back home and walk back.

Sable Road is where so many of our friends live. We were able to get to say goodbye to quite a few as they were passing by on their way home. 

Our first night of driving took us to the Fairgrounds in Red Bluff, CA. It was dark when we got there and Al and Trudy were already there. We visited a bit but it was cold and late so we turned in. Tad knew his buddy Tyson was nearby and he did not want to go to sleep until he knew Tyson had gone to bed. 

In the morning the dogs had a good run and play.