Day 5 – Bear Gulch Pictographs to Phat Fish Brewing 330 miles

 We had an excellent night’s sleep, boondocking near the Bear Gulch Pictographs. They are a Harvest Host site, so we camped for free right on the property! We were amazed by seeing the Great Rift of the Milky Way. It seemed to stretch almost from horizon to horizon. 

Our guide, Ray, the son of owner Macie Ahlgren, met us at 9:30 and took Janice, Tad, and me in his truck down to the gulch. The pictographs are mainly on their farm, which has been in their family since the early 1900s.

Over the next 2 ½ hours, Ray showed us hundreds of pictographs and provided an interpretation of what they meant to the Black Creek Indians who lived there for thousands of years. 

Janice and I were absolutely amazed at what we saw, and we couldn’t believe that we were experiencing something not many people have seen. It wasn’t just about looking at ancient artwork; it felt like stepping back in time. Ray’s knowledge, passion, and ability to explain the significance of what we were seeing made the day unforgettable. It wasn’t just about looking at ancient artwork, it felt like stepping back in time. 

In addition to over 1,000 pictographs, settlers going back to 1896 signed the wall. Fortunately, they didn't deface any of the pictographs in the process.

We bought a large book that was published about the Bear Gulch Pictographs. We hope to return again to spend more time here next time.

We left and proceeded to travel dusty dirt roads for nearly 20 miles. It was easy for us to imagine being in a wagon train as I guided the motorhome through the hills and valleys of this magical place.

It took us almost 7 hours to reach our Harvest Host (Phat Fish Brewing). We enjoyed chicken jalapeno pizza along with some of their beer. We went to the motorhome and retired for the evening, anxious to get started in the morning. Tomorrow we will be in Minnesota!  

Day 4: Swan Lake to Bear Gulch Pictographs. Sept 24, 2025, 350 miles

A lovely start to the day with breakfast prepared by Jean. Sausage, eggs, fruit and COFFEE of course. Orange juice on the side as well. I don't think we have to eat lunch. The conversation was lively with talk of travelling, family, and gratitude. We logged some pictures, said our goodbyes with a more "see you later" attitude cause we hate goodbyes.

Our first break was at the sculptures in the wind attraction in Lincoln MT. An open park like stroll with Tad along well beaten paths from the multitudes of visitors.

The sculptures were mostly natural products. One of the sculptures was a very elaborate house looking structure made from willow twigs. Another was made out of newspapers. In this setting, I liked the ones that blended in. I think I liked the picture frame the best. Tad was excited the whole way and required a few gallons of water to rehydrate his tongue that was left hanging during our walk.

I took over driving for a few hours as we travelled across the roller coaster highways of the trip over the continental divide. 

When I resumed the passenger seat Tad was happy to stick his head out and catch the smells of the world. I caught the sprinkle of spraying dog slobber as the wind rushed to return the liquid to the cab where it began. Unapologetic, Tad turned with the same excitement to show his gratitude for the opportunity and smiled. His bony elbows digging into me were unpleasant to say the least but I adjusted quickly to relieve the pain.

The pictographs would be closed by the time we would arrive so my job was to find a suitable parking spot for the evening. The road turned to gravel but unlike Oregon, this road was not washboarded. Smooth sailing. We arrived just before sunset. As luck would have it, when we arrived, the son of the owner greeted us and showed us to the approved parking area. Just enough time to walk Tad and Comet, cook some soup, and eat the last of our chili from home. 

Kasey still had some beer from brew fest. A dark one that I passed on. We played a few games of spite and Malice. My mom's favorite game. I won 3 straight games and stopped 7 wars so all in a good days work. Tomorrow we explore the pictographs.

Day 3: Swan Lake with Jean Erickson Walker

We slept magnificently after yesterday’s 7+ hour drive to Swan Lake. Waking up at Jean Erickson Walker’s beautiful home, we felt so happy to be spending time with our dear friend in such a peaceful setting.

Jean made us a delicious frittata for breakfast, and we enjoyed planning our day together, swapping stories about our lives and travels. Her warmth and energy set the perfect tone for our visit.

Jean had a couple of errands, so Janice and I took the opportunity for an 11.5-mile bike ride to a wildlife refuge. It was a dreamy day—75 degrees, blue sky, biking along the lake and through trees. We watched a deer scamper across the road, and Janice stopped to take a picture of a snake for Julie Lowe. It has been such an honor to spend time with Julie’s mom and reminisce about Julie growing up.

When we got back, Jean was napping, so Janice, Tad, and I sat out on the deck overlooking Swan Lake, watching fishing boats troll by. Soon, drowsiness overtook us, too—I tipped my cap down and dozed off in a deck chair, while Janice and Tad went back to nap in the motorhome.

Later, I went inside to find Jean  on hors d’oeuvres before dinner. She is a marvelous cook, and we’re continually amazed at her ability to prepare incredible meals while engaging us in lively conversation.

Jean gifted us an incredible cookbook she wrote, filled with stories of their travels abroad and dozens of recipes, each choreographed with a memory or adventure. It’s a true treasure.

As we enjoyed the hors d’oeuvres, Jean prepared tuna filets, courtesy of a neighbor who dropped off a fresh catch that afternoon. Again, I’m in awe of how she cooks so gracefully while keeping us in conversation—I think I could only manage that with peanut butter and jelly sandwiches!

After dinner, we settled in the living room and continued to share stories. Jean recounted how she and her husband, George, first met, and told us about their children: Cheryl, Julie, and Eric. She shared how Julie met her husband Chris, and we told Jean how grateful we are to have Julie and Chris as part of our Umpqua Watersheds team, and how much fun we have together.

We all shared stories about the twists and turns in our lives, and Janice and I reflected on how we found each other. It was a magical day, and we feel so grateful and humbled,, by Jean’s amazing hospitality.

Swan Lake, here we come: Day 2 Sept 22, 2025 450 miles

We crossed into Washington today with Comet riding shotgun. Headed for Spokane to get dog treats and gas. I saw a dollar tree and decided to get some cheapo reading glasses and canned dog food while Kasey went into Costco for a few things. We chose a spot away from all the stores and took up several spots for parking. While in the dollar store a young woman with 2 small kids was struggling to get through adventures in shopping. Apparently the older one that wasn't in the stroller and was about 3 or 4 had let out a few bad words. WTF comes to mind. She seemed unsure where the youngster heard those words and cautioned to never say them again or penalties would ensure. As she was trying to manage to not get more items in the cart as the older one kept adding items, she seemed to get a head of the additions by placing them out of reach. A constant "don't do this" and "put that back" was the dialogue for a good part of 15 minutes all while I was grateful to not have had to been a part of adventures in shopping. I started to think that she should have brought some duct tape. The toddler was crawling in these little spaces under the checkout counter and a leash came to mind as a handy item. The mother offered bribes of snacks and sugary and colorful items if he would be a good boy. As the tallying came to an end, the woman then had several bags that she had not intended to have. As she loaded the cart, the checker said that she could not take the cart out of the store. The exasperated mother started to figure the options of a stroller and a toddler with 3 bags of groceries. Seeing her predicament, I immediately offered assistance to carry items to her car for her. She assured me that it was fine and she would manage but as I checked out and she was still struggling to get through the door, I offered again and this time she said that it would be nice. As I walked to the car with her, she said that she had not planned on getting so many items but stuff kept getting loaded in the stroller.

After I got back to the motorhome, I waited for Kasey. 

Off we went to St. Regis MT for the famous souvenir store. The place with live fish in tanks. All kinds of things in the store including butt wipes. It is fun and Kasey bought a couple of Huckleberry shakes because one was not enough for him.

The drive to Swan Lake was scenic and our destination was Jean Walker's house, Julie's mom.

An absolutely wonderful house along swan lake with a delightful view.  We had a wonderful dinner filled with conversation. We had never had paeia before. 

We retired for the night filled with stories of previously visiting grizzly bears. No long walk for Tad tonight.

More fun tomorrow.

Dusty Trails Wagon Train – Day 1: Umpqua Brew Fest and Hitting the Road

Hello from Boardman, Oregon!

After weeks of organizing, anticipation, and teamwork, Umpqua Brew Fest XIV is officially in the books, and what a celebration it was! As the sun rose early yesterday, our small but mighty crew got to work, transforming the Umpqua Outback into a vibrant festival of music, community, and craft beer. By 9:30 last night, after a full day of festivities, laughter, and connection, Janice and I were exhausted, but not weary. There’s a difference. My heart is full and happy with how everything turned out.

The big Umpqua Outback banner looked fantastic as the backdrop for an incredible lineup of musicians. The whole place radiated with color and creativity, thank you to everyone who contributed! Our sponsors, volunteers, musicians, and guests truly brought this event to life.

A special shout-out to everyone who enjoyed the beers and read the descriptions. “Taddy’s Good Boy Pale Ale” turned out to be a fan favorite  a fitting tribute to our loyal four-legged companion. 

This morning, the whirlwind continued as we finished packing, tidied up the house, and loaded the bikes on the motorhome. By 2pm, we were rolling north, our spirits lifted by memories of the festival and excitement for the journey ahead. Our first night’s stop: Boardman, Oregon, at Burnt Field Brewing and Pizza. Though they were just closing when we arrived, we made do with some homemade pico de gallo from our garden—a humble but satisfying start to our adventure.

Tomorrow, we hit the road for Montana—destination: Swan Lake, where we’ll stay with our dear friend Jean Erickson Walker for a couple of nights. After that, we’ll continue on to Minnesota, where I look forward to reuniting with family, especially after the worry of Ashley’s recent hospitalization. I am so grateful that she’s out and recovering.

Tonight we are all feel like Tad looks like in this picture. Exhausted!

As I write this, I’m reminded again of the power of community and connection, whether at a bustling festival or a quiet family gathering. Here’s to new roads, old friends, and the spirit that keeps us moving forward, together.

Stay tuned for Day 2—Janice’s turn!

On the Road Again!

Janice, Tad, Comet, and I left home Saturday morning, bound for Petaluma, CA, to celebrate Janice’s niece Morgan and her husband Grant’s wedding vow renewal. They were married quietly a few years ago, but now we finally have the chance to celebrate with them and their two precious daughters, Acacia and Hazel—about 460 miles from home.

We wrapped up a few last chores before leaving at 10 a.m., fueled up, picked up supplies at Costco, and pointed the rig south on I-5. After more than five hours on the road, we decided to stop for the night at a Harvest Host site near Willows, CA, called Chico Rice.

Chico Rice is a working rice farm that not only grows rice, but also packages it on-site. We arrived around 4:30, checked in with our host Tom by phone, and set up camp beneath the welcome shade of the silos.

It was still sweltering—the high that day was 104°F! It was 97 when we rolled in, but much cooler in the shade. We stripped down to the bare essentials (shorts for me, shorts and a top for Janice) and enjoyed watching flocks of cormorants fly overhead. Tad and Comet relished a little freedom to roam and stretch their legs.

After the sun dipped below the horizon, we scrambled into the motorhome, where Janice proceeded to thrash me in three games of Rummikub. (“Please ma’am, may I have another beating?”) Eventually, we retreated to the bedroom and slept well once things cooled off.

This morning, after fueling up and grabbing some coffee, we drove two more hours to Petaluma. We both got haircuts, hit the ATM for some cash, took Tad to a local dog park, and made our way to the wedding venue—a lovely farm called Flying Cloud. We checked in early and were given a spot to dry camp overnight. The high is expected to hit 93°F today, so we put out the awning and did our best to keep Tad and Comet cool and comfortable.

The festivities officially kick off at 3 p.m., and the temperature should be dropping by then. We’re looking forward to celebrating Morgan and Grant’s special day surrounded by family and friends.

As always, it’s these little moments—games in the cool of the motorhome, birds wheeling in the evening sky, the excited energy of family reuniting—that make the journey as memorable as the destination. Onward!

Fast Times… (September Reflections)

 August seemed to fly by even faster than usual this year. We kicked off the month by celebrating Ken and Jenny’s wedding anniversary at their annual two-day party at their beautiful home along the North Umpqua—just a mile downhill from us. That same weekend, we also marked the 80th birthday of our dear friend, Jim Arneson.

The following weekend, Janice and I slipped away to the Coast to celebrate our 11th anniversary, as we do every year. There’s something magical and timeless about being together by the ocean, where worries seem to be swept away with the tide.

August continued at a quick pace with plenty of projects at Umpqua Watersheds. Usually, we travel east to Minnesota for several weeks in late summer to visit family, but this year, we decided to go after the Umpqua Brew Fest, not before. We wanted to be here to attend Janice’s niece Morgan and her husband Graham’s wedding celebration (though they were quietly married nine years ago, this will be a true gathering of family and friends).

September promises to be even more eventful. Preparations for the Umpqua Brew Fest are in full swing—my 11th and final year as lead organizer and promoter of this event. There’s always pressure, especially this year with fewer beer trailers than usual, but we have a great team and over $8,000 in sponsorships secured, which eases the fundraising burden. Still, there are countless moving parts to coordinate before Saturday, September 20th!

In the midst of it all, we’ve been busy canning tomatoes and peppers from the garden, with more still to do. 🍅🌶

This weekend, we’re off on a two-day camping trip to Crater Lake to participate in the "Ride the Rim"—a 34-mile bike trip around the lake. We’ll return Sunday to work on the new stage roof for the Umpqua Outback Project, aiming for a major milestone with the soft launch of KQUA 90.5 NCE later this month.

If all goes to plan, the day after Brew Fest, Janice, Tad, Comet, and I will hop in the motorhome for a six-week road trip. I’ve had the itinerary ready for over a month: we’ll stop to see Julie Lowe’s mom in Montana, then my cousin Jesse in Brainerd, and spend three weeks in Minnesota with my sister Lynn, my son Nick (and his family), my daughter Ashley (and her boys), and—hopefully—more cousins. We’ll wind our way home via Wisconsin (to visit Janice’s cousin in Green Bay), Madison (to see Amy and Zach), and Springfield, Illinois, for some Abraham Lincoln history. Perhaps we’ll also visit Hannibal, Missouri, to take in some Mark Twain exhibits, and then head south to see Janice’s niece in Oklahoma City before crossing back through Aztec, New Mexico, and home by late October.

Our long trips are always bittersweet—a touch of sadness to leave home, mixed with the excitement of the road, time with loved ones, and the adventure of the unknown. I handle most of the planning, which helps keep Janice from feeling overwhelmed, and I find joy in shaping the journey.

Earlier tonight, we shared a meal with our dear friend and best man, Mike Burke. I made tamales, and we reminisced about our whirlwind 900-mile weekend trip, including camping at Chico Rice near Willows, California—a Harvest Host site that welcomes travelers for a night in exchange for supporting local products. Mike, who grew up in Willows and harvested rice in the 1960s, enjoyed the stories and the organic rice we brought back. We sent him home with his usual "care package" of leftovers, grateful for a moment of quiet connection before the next busy stretch.

And so, in the swift current of these days, we hold on to each moment, knowing how quickly it all passes.

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Closing Reflection

In the swirl of busy days and long miles, I am reminded of the gift of presence—how each gathering, garden harvest, and shared meal is a stitch in the tapestry of our lives. However quickly time may pass, the bonds we nurture, the roots we tend, and the memories we create will linger long after the calendar page turns.

Our Eastern Oregon Adventure: On the Road Again

We’re off on another camping trip—this time to Strawberry Reservoir on  the Winema Freemont National Forest near Bly, Oregon. For the past two years, we’ve made this journey with our dear friends, Jim and Pat Arneson. Jim has been conducting a breeding bird survey in the area for years and managed to rope Janice into helping him. They’d rise at 4 a.m., head out into the crisp dawn, and survey until noon.

Pat and I—faithful, if somewhat begrudging, support crew—agreed to hold down the fort in our respective campers, just in case a flock of rare or exotic birds decided to grace the campsite while Jim and Janice were off counting feathers. I, for one, often spotted a bald-headed, sleepy-eyed bird at dawn (ahem, in the mirror). And, on more than one occasion, the infamous flipping bird made an appearance—especially if the dogs and I got too noisy in the early hours.

Sadly, Jim and Pat couldn’t join us this year, but we decided to go anyway. We had hoped to leave earlier, but there was still some work to finish up with Umpqua Watersheds, and of course, the garden needed watering before we left.

A stop at the Grocery Outlet turned into an unexpected highlight of the day. We saved an astonishing $140—enough for me to take a victory lap around the store, high-fiving fellow shoppers and staff alike. Though, if I’m honest, I’m starting to suspect this whole “you saved!” gimmick is a bit of a racket. The so-called savings seem to be compared to prices at Steve’s Super Store for Smucks, where everything’s marked up because Steve’s secretly running a squirrel bordello in the back of the store and renting out “peak rooms” for folks with unusual obsessions.

Anyway (and yes, I’ve noticed I say “anyway” a lot more in my golden years—must be a perk of aging), after unloading most of the Grocery Outlet haul into the motorhome (did I mention we saved $140?), we mounted the e-bikes, which took some extra effort because we had to remove the bike rack from the Honda CRV.

By the time we were ready to hit the road, it was after 4 p.m. We headed east on North Bank Road, then picked up Highway 138 to cross the Cascades, before turning south onto Highway 97. We made it as far as Spring Creek, where we decided to spend the night.

Spring Creek is a magical place—its waters so pure they nurture Mare’s Eggs, those curious, gelatinous blue-green algae that resemble rocks but are, in fact, living relics of Earth’s ancient waters. This sacred place is deeply important to the Klamath people, and we always try to be mindful of its significance and history.

Sadly, the forest here has changed since we last visited. A bad fire in 2020 scarred the landscape, and much of the area has been heavily thinned since then.

After settling in, we fed the dogs and Comet, had a quiet dinner, and played a couple of rounds of Spite and Malice (our favorite card game). The night was peaceful, the only sounds being the soft breath of our family tucked in for the night—Comet nestled on her pillow between Janice and me, and the boys sleeping up front.

This trip is more than just a getaway—it’s a chance to recharge our batteries after the many months of work, challenges, and victories with Umpqua Watersheds and KQUA. The projects we’re dedicated to—whether it’s protecting the rivers and forests we love, supporting education and community, or sharing stories and songs over the airwaves—require passion, energy, and heart.

But even the most steadfast hearts need time to rest, reflect, and restore. That’s what these journeys give us: a chance to step away from the daily hustle, breathe in the clean air, listen to the birdsong (whether Jim’s counting them or not), and reconnect with the simple joys of life—quiet mornings, good meals, the company of beloved animals, and the wide, star-filled skies of Oregon.

Here at the edge of the forest and the water, we can feel our spirits realigning with the rhythms of nature, reminding us why we do the work we do. The gratitude we feel in these moments fuels us for the road ahead—just as the Mare’s Eggs thrive only in the purest of waters, we find strength and inspiration when we immerse ourselves in the wild beauty of these places.

As we head into the week at Strawberry Reservoir, we carry that gratitude with us, knowing that the work will be waiting when we return—but for now, we rest, we play, we wonder, and we give thanks for the gift of this life.

Day 48 April 20: Easter.

From Farmlands to Snow-Covered Mountains
We’ve traveled across many landscapes over these past 47 days—rolling farmland, stark deserts, rugged coastlines, and now snow-dusted mountains. It doesn’t feel like it's been that long, yet at the same time, it feels like we've been away forever. It’s been a long journey, and we’re ready to return home to whatever awaits us—both the personal and the professional challenges. I say "professional," but we’re volunteers. Still, our involvement often feels full-time.
We left Lucero Farm in Galt, California, without any rush. The pace was slow and easy, and that felt just right. We’ve been gone 48 days; one or two more won't make a difference. There’s something comforting about that—about not having to hurry.
We planned to meet up with our friend Steve Laymon in Red Bluff for a meal and some good conversation. Steve is the one who first connected me to spotted owls, all the way back in 1983. He hasn’t changed much. His hair is whiter—mine too—but he still wears the same black-rimmed glasses and has that familiar, comforting smile. His Ph.D. research focused on the California Spotted Owl, back when so little was known. We were pioneering work that I had no idea would shape the course of my life.
The plight of wildlife first came into national focus in the 1960s, especially with Rachel Carson’s Silent Spring, which raised the alarm about pesticides and their devastating effects on birds. We were losing the Peregrine Falcon, the iconic Bald Eagle, the Osprey—apex predators that were slipping away silently. In 1973, a Republican president, Richard Nixon, signed the Endangered Species Act into law. It was a bipartisan effort, a national reckoning that our natural heritage was being destroyed in the name of short-term profit.
Somewhere along the way, "regulation" became a bad word. But the ESA was—and still is—essential. No, it’s not perfect. But it gave wildlife a fighting chance. It forced society to consider the voiceless—the wild things that make our ecosystems whole. Now, the current administration is proposing to gut the ESA, stripping away critical habitat protections. Under this change, a violation would only occur if there was direct killing. But for species that migrate, are elusive, or require large territories, this redefinition is a death sentence.
There’s a 30-day public comment period, already underway. It ends May 19, 2025. If you care, even just a little, please take five minutes and submit a comment. You can even use my words. Here’s the link. Do it for me, for the owls, for the future.
Long drives give you time to think. About big things. About regulation—why we have it, and why it matters. Sure, some rules inconvenience us. But most were born out of real problems. Without traffic laws, people would drive recklessly. Without consumer protections, companies would take advantage of the vulnerable. Today alone, we drove on a federally funded highway, checked the weather, watched a plane overhead, drank clean water, and breathed clean air. All of that is possible because of government programs and regulations.
The Endangered Species Act shouldn't be weakened—it should be fortified. There’s so little old-growth habitat left for spotted owls. You can't put a tree back on a 300-year-old stump. Once it’s gone, it’s gone. And I fear we’re witnessing the end of what little remains.

To break up the weight of those thoughts, I read a few chapters from The Housemaid is Watching as the miles rolled by. Before we knew it, we arrived in Red Bluff and there was Steve, just as we remembered. We caught up on his family, his travels, and he promised to visit us in Roseburg in the near future.

Our journey continued northward. As all RV travelers know, there are some less glamorous tasks to attend to before you can hit the road again.
By late afternoon, we were in Redding, visiting Craig Tappen and his partner, Wendy. Craig used to live across the street from me when I was a kid. Even though it was Easter, they carved out time for a couple of drinks and a talk about the state of the world. 

Wendy shared her project, The Kindness Revolution, which focuses on random acts of kindness in the community—a glimmer of light in heavy times.

As dusk approached, we decided to make a little more progress toward home. We made it as far as Mt. Shasta, where we found a quiet forest road near the Nordic Center. Snow still blanketed the ground, so it promised to be a cold night. But the view of Mt. Shasta made it all worth it. We wrapped up the day with a few games of Spite and Malice, warm in our little home on wheels.