Day 44: Syracuse KS to Great Dunes National Park, Colorado: 252 miles. A New Beginning!

We were on the road when I received a text from my Son, Nick, that his wife, Alyssa, gave birth to my 6th Grandchild today! The text read "Cade Richard Hovik is here! He is 6 pounds 5 oz, 19 inches long and was born at 9:29 a.m. on 9/22/23. Both baby and momma are healthy and happy! 🥰" Cade joins his Big Sister, Alice and Big Brother Owen. My daughter Ashley has 3 Boys, Odin, Ike and Bo. I am one proud Grandpa!

Our day began at the County Fairgrounds in Syracuse Kansas. Janice picked another great boondocking site. Nobody near us, great Dog trails and relatively quiet. We did have a moment when we were going to bed and each of us gave the other the "what's-that-smell stinkeye" only to realize it was the very odiferous Kansas Dairy Air. Just to be safe we both took showers in the morning.

We got up at dawn and were on the road before 8. It was fun to leave the prairie, hit the foothills of Colorado and then climb into the mountains. Lexy did a great job of pulling the Gray Toad up some pretty steep grades although one time she slowed down to 35 mph and I was afraid Janice and I were going to help by "Flintstoning" 

We got to the Great Sand Dunes National Park area and found a great boondocking site near an old quarry near BLM Land. We decoupled the Honda and headed to the Park. It is absolutely spectacular and, unlike most National Parks, Dogs are allowed on several trails. The Park is one of our favorite National Parks yet. Our camping spot is very secluded with great views of the mountains and has cell reception so I could do my blog!

Day 43: Iola to Syracuse, Kansas:383 miles

No trains, planes, or automobiles. It does not get any quieter than Bird Farm, Iola Kansas. I was up with the birds this morning listening and recording what I heard, what Merlin heard, and what I saw.

 I got on tangents chasing butterflies and taking pictures of insects on flowers. 

Kasey found an Osage Orange. I couldn't locate any on trees. Oddest looking orange, but apparently has some interesting qualities. 

It is in the mulberry family and is native to North America, mainly Oklahoma and Texas, but not to Kansas. The wood has such strength that it was used in making bows. The tree is not susceptible to insects or fungus. Some animals eat the fruit but the outer covering is very hard and difficult to penetrate. Humans don't bother. Too much work.

Kasey flew the drone over the property and the dogs got another swim in the pond. 

It looks as if a beaver has set up residency. That stick has gnaw marks and I saw and heard a big splash in the pond.

We set off on the long drive to Dodge City to continue to make our way west. On the way, I educated Kasey on what "virga" is. Precipitation that evaporates before hitting the ground, essentially. There were places in the sky where it looked as if it was raining, but it trailed off before touching earth. 

At Dodge City, KS, we got gas, ate dinner, took pictures, and caught up on our plans. We couldn't get the wifi to work at the restaurant, so drone pictures will come later. Since there was nothing else to see and the only overnight spot was Walmart, we opted to "get out of Dodge." We headed to Suracuse, KS to a spot listed as a comfortable place to overnight. Driving into the sun and past sunset made for a long day. There must be a large contingent of cattle in these parts. Kasey kept mentioning the "dairy air."

 Our journey added more miles to the day but will be less tomorrow. Sunsets and lightning entertained us as well as Beatles CD's.

Indeed the place for the night is great. Across from a golf course on fairgrounds property. Some overgrown spots with electrical and water are here but we like being nestled in the trees.

Day 42: Climax Springs, MO to Iola, KS. 147 miles

We woke up this morning very rested. It was a peaceful night. The dogs slept well in their synchronized sleeping pose. 

The neighbors were very quiet. Not one car drove by the entire night. Most cemeteries are public land and unless posted, you can spend all night. And they are usually on flat ground. 

Yesterday would have my normal blog day since we are alternating, but Kasey had so much to say about his past in Climax Springs, MO and feelings to share that I could not come close to expressing appropriately. So he asked that it be his day to blog. And so it was. 

After breakfast, I was eager to look at all the headstones that were embedded in the ground. Some were overgrown and I needed to pull weeds to see the inscription. I did find a couple that Kasey missed yesterday. One was 10 year old at death and another 22. 

He mentioned how about a quarter of people buried there were related to him. On the flip side, not one appeared to be related to me. Kasey motioned me back from my quest so we could get on the road to Iola, KS where our dear friend, Diana Wales owns property called the Bird Farm. The property has been in her family for generations and we get to stay on the property for the night.

Before we left Climax Springs, Kasey wanted to visit the high school baseball field and a church that was named for his relatives that was not far away. Notice the bathrooms are labeled Cougars and Lady Cougars. Don't get me started.

 The Wiseman Church was named for his relatives on his mother's side. His mom's mom was a Wiseman. We pulled up to the abandoned church and looked around. Vegetation was growing in doorways and covering steps. It appeared to have been abandoned 10 years ago or so. 

I couldn't resist. The back door was unlocked and so I went in and looked around. It is sad to see the building in disrepair. The place smelled of mildew and there were places where the ceiling had leaked. Mice were chewing on hymn books, and spiders had established territories. A closet contained books, Christmas ornaments, games and other things including another sign for the church.

We got on the road being mindful that this area of the country has a sparse population. The highways seem to be ready for the increase in traffic. No commute time here.

We spent the drive playfully arguing over pronunciation of towns such as Rolla (he says that it is pronounced Rah lah). Why the O in it then? Then there is Nevada, KS. Here, they say the first "a" as a long sound. Nuh vai duh. 

We caught up on the news, and Heather Cox Richardson. 

Our host in Canada, Ross, texted us that his gentle dog Barney passed away while they were travelling in Oregon. Kasey mentioned that he was doing what he liked to do. Rest easy Barney.

We arrived and set up our overnight spot on the bird farm and went to check out the lake which is amazing. The boys has a nice swim and romp around. Dragonflies were thick in places.

We went to town for Internet so we could participate in a few overdue zoom meetings for Umpqua Watersheds. Technically, Gas, KS is the closest town and we had fun with that name as well. I think we will keep that little banter to ourselves, but you can imagine. 

We talked briefly with Diana about our stay and returned to our campsite in time to see the sunset, hear barred owls, and coyotes.

Another amazing day.

Day 41: St. Louis to Climax Springs Missouri - 202 miles - Memories

Today would be my Mom's 87th birthday and today we celebrated her special day by traveling to Climax Springs where she was raised and where my Grandparents were born. 

WARNING! This is going to be a long post so feel free to skip to the pictures. It was an emotional day for me.

Our first stop in Climax Springs was to see a friend from High School  who was also a college roommate I haven't seen him in over 40 years. Unfortunately, he runs a business in town and had a lot going on so we didn't have anytime to reminisce. I shook his hand and we moved on. 

Our next stop was at Climax Springs K-12 School where I graduated from in 1977. Sadly, most of the school was destroyed in a fire in 1987 and had been rebuilt. Fortunately, the gym and shop were saved. 

At first, we were unable to enter because of the standard security protocols in place today that weren't in place in ancient times when I went to school. We sat on a bench and then the Principal came out to see who was lurking outside. I explained I had graduated from there and he invited us inside. He showed us  a display which showed graduating classes going back to the 1950's including my Mom's class of 1953 and my class of 1977!

We walked over and we were introduced to the Girls Coach and talked about several people I knew whose kids and grandkids are still in the area.  Thank you, Principal Joshua Griffith for making us feel so welcome! I asked about buying a Climax Springs HS T-Shirt and we were directed to a small boutique a block away.

The village of Climax Springs is as close to a ghost town as you can get. Most of the buildings that were open when I was a kid are just stone monuments to the glorious days of Climax Springs. Fortunately, the small building which contains the boutique has been resurrected. When I was 10 years old my Grandpa and I used to get our haircut in that for .50 cents!

Janice waited outside with the Boys and I went into the boutique. I explained that I was a grad of Climax Springs HS and hoped to buy a T-Shirt as a souvenir. The owner directed me to a rack of t-shirts. While I was looking for a shirt a man came into the shop and said that Principal Griffith told him I was a 1977 graduate. He said he was James Butterfield, the son of the Boys Coach, Steve Butterfield when I was there. I played baseball and basketball and in addition to being the coach his Dad was the Senior Class Sponsor for our Senior Class Trip to Florida. James is now the Boys HS Coach. Sadly, his Dad passed two years ago. He seemed very happy to meet someone who his Dad had coached.

 When I went to pay for my two t-shirts and a swearshirt for Janice, Carly told me Coach Butterfield said they were free because I was an alumni!

We left Climax Springs and headed to Coffman Bend on the Lake of the Ozarks where my Grandparents lived. It is about 10 miles from town on a topsy turvy road. The area had changed a lot as I expected. There were more houses and the roads now had names. It has become an area where the people from the city come on weekends and Holidays in addition to a handful of folks who move down to the Lake to escape the City as my folks did after my sophmore year in high school.

We went to the Coffman Bend Marina. It was closed today but I was able to show Janice the little dock building I worked at in the sumnertime that was once called "The Burger Barge"

I then showed her where my Grandparents lived in the house next to my Uncle Charlie and Aunt Garneta. We then drove 2 miles to see my Grandparents first house on the Lake.  Returning to these special places was like I thought it would be. Sad, strange and different. My Grandparents were so special to me that it could never be the same and, as expected, it felt sad and empty in spite of being in a beautiful place.

We headed out and intended to stop where my Parents, Sister and I lived on the opposite side of Coffman Bend but I missed the turn. I think it would have been too sad so I am glad we moved on.

We headed for our last stop of the day, the Climax Springs Cemetary. I have visited here many times with my Grandparents on Memorial Day. The cemetary is 4 miles outside of town on a gravel road. It has about 250 headstones of which at least 25% are relatives, including my Grandparents, Great-Grandparents, Aunts, Uncles and Cousins. There are also many names of people I recognized, including a classmate.

We spent at least an hour looking at the headstones. It is so peaceful, big oak trees, a gente breeze and time to think and reflect. When I was a Kid everyone brought something to add to a potluck lunch on Memorial Day. People told stories and reminisced. Grandpa, a Methodist minister, would say a few words and a prayer in rememberance of those who passed. It was like a reunion of the living and the departed.

Janice, the Boys and I sat outside our motorhome and had dinner. As the sun faded a whip-poor-will started calling and fire flies begin to blink over the headtones. It was a perfect ending to my day of rememberance and a reminder that life continues. The fabric of life is woven with the thread of past, present and future. 

Day 40: Nashville, TN to St. Louis, MO 309 miles

We left Nashville with full hearts, special memories and clean clothes. It was wonderful being with Charlie and Amy and to be their first "official" out-of-town guests since moving from San Francisco in July. They have a beautiful home and great neighbors and we are so happy we got to be with Charlie and Amy over the weekend.

After a 5-hour drive we got to our Harvest Host camp site in Columbia, Illinois, about 20 minutes fron downtown St. Louis. We took the Boys for a nice walk and then left them in the motorhome and headed to the Gateway Arch National Park.

Unfortunately, they changed the process for tram rides to the top since the last time I was there, in 2009 with my Son, Nick. They didn't have any spots available today even though it wasn't very busy. I was bummed because I really wanted Janice to experience looking down from the very top of the Arch. I have been to the top several times going back to when I was a kid with my Sister, Lynn, Mom and 2nd Dad ("There are no steps in our Family", as Dad Harold used to say.

We ha9o 22od time to watch a great movie about how they made the Gateway Arch Building the Dream . It surprised me that it took over 3 years to build.

Janice got her National Parks Passport stamped and we picked up our refrigerator magnetic. We are up to over 40 National Parks since getting the motorhome 6 years ago and will see a few more before this trip is done in a couple weeks.

Day 39: Nashville, Day Two

We started this morning with another yummy breakfast. Amy and Charlie worked in tandem to put the ingredients together for breakfast burritos, while we did our accumulated laundry. After breakfast we took another long walk through the Shelby Bottoms green space near their house. We stopped every so often to identify insects and plants along the way and to look at displays. I saw and heard new bird for me today. A white eyed vireo. It is a bird seen in the southeastern US, but not in the west.

We returned to their house and much to Amy's dismay, a Black Kingsnake was discovered in their garage. It was a juvenile and Kasey caught it so we could see it well. The Black Kingsnake is not venomous and actually can eat venomous snakes. The toxin has no affect on it. So, as much as Amy would rather it not be in her garage, it probably means the venomous snakes are not.

We relaxed for a while, ate a small lunch, watched the wildlife from the deck and enjoyed the mild day.

Amy and I made a quick trip to the grocery store. After that we went to antique stores to look around. Amy and Charlie bought a nice chest to place their shoes near the door. Kasey and Charlie found some vinyl records at a nearby shop.

We then went to dinner at a German Beer House called the Bavarian Bierhaus. We sat near a couple of men who apparently just returned from Ireland. They were celebrating with huge glasses of beer. Our group conversed with them and told jokes. I was on the end so I caught only parts of the conversation. 

Toward the end of the meal Charlie and Amy got a text that their neighbor, Christian, broke his chain on his bike and he needed a lift home. He was almost 10 miles away from his house and it was dark. We made our way to him despite GPS giving us slightly incorrect coordinates.
We got a peak of the lit up arch in Nasvile on our way home as well as a nice sunset with a cresent moon. 

When we got back to Charlie and Amy's, they wanted to listen to their vinyl records. The one Kasey bought was a 1971 Beatles album called, Ram. A great find. We had pie and ice cream for dessert while we listened to music.
Amy has to get up early for teaching, so we said our goodbyes. 

A very nice visit and we are already talking about our next visit. 

They have lots of wildlife. A regular is the barred owl.

Day 38: Nashville Family Time!

We had a splendid time with Charlie and Amy in Nashville. After a blissful rest we woke up and had coffee and then took a great walk with the Boys in the fabulous greenspace near their home. We walked over 3 miles and enjoyed walking in a light mist. 

When we got back to Amy and Charlie's house we had a delicious breakfast and planned out the day. We talked and laughed and reminisced over breakfast and then left to explore Nashville.

We went to the Muscians Hall of Fame and spent over 3 hours exploring the marvelous exhibits. It started with a short movie about all of the magnificent session players who played for some of biggest stars and on some of the greatest hits in history.

After we left the museum we walked around the capitol of Tennessee before succumbing to our thirst. We magically ended up at the Tennessee Brew Works, owned by Charlie and Amy's neighbor, Christian Spears.

Afterwards, we grilled out and Pascal the cat decided to jump off their deck on top of our motorhome. Charlie coaxed him back on the deck before we could convince Pascal to join us in the motorhome. We called Janice's brother, David and niece Katheryn in California. It was a wonderful day and we look forward to more fun tomorrow!