Day 41: Home

 

The camping spot had some nice trails in the area so we ventured out with Tad to get some exercise and give him plenty of opportunity to empty his bowels and bladder. It was cold but the sun peaked out fairly often. 

The pets vied for the premier spot on the final leg of our journey. We stopped one more time for gas and the Crater Lake Junction. I picked up some coffee for both of us to be sure we remained alert.

It really starts feeling like home when you travel the North Umpqua with it's spectacular views and rock formations. 

Even in it's destruction, the recovery of the Archie Creek fire area was in beautiful fall foliage.

Our journey successfully ended and the sky gave us a colorful "good night" complete with fall foliage of our own.

The next day would be dictated by the accumulation of laundry and mail, some things often neglected for other more pleasurable activities. But it eventually catches up to you.

In addition to death and taxes, laundry and mail should be listed as inevitabilities.

Day 40: almost home

 

I woke up with a little face sticking out from under the blankets. So cute, but also reminded me of the gremlins characters.

I hated to move her but we needed to get going. Morning was breaking and we had to make up some miles. I scurried about, getting the coffee going, taking Tad for a walk, and preparing some breakfast. We had yogurt, bananas, and granola. Since we are getting close to home we need to eat the food we have. The Wendover Airfield Museum is on the border of Utah and Nevada. Just a few hundred feet from Nevada. You could tell because the usual landscape of flat terrain for an airport gave way to a towering casino complete with glitzy lights alternating and announcing the excitement that you might find inside. The Casino would have been a cheap place to eat no doubt. 

As we embarked, I decided to lie down and get a little rest so that I could take over driving at some point and make some tracks. Kasey had a little trouble finding the freeway entrance. I guess Google maps was not awake yet either, I think she provided vital information about 15 seconds too late. Otherwise, the day began as others had recently, hitting the highway through unpopulated areas and scenery to keep your mind occupied.

Somewhere near Golconda, NV the traffic slowed in both lanes and Kasey slowed to nearly a stop. I woke to hear a regular ticking sound. I wasn't sure where it was coming from and tried to determine where it was coming from using the process of elimination. Eventually I opened the window that is on the drivers side of the motorhome just above the back tire. You know, the one that had break work and new tires put on. There was no one next to us and I ascertained that Kasey was in the fast lane but doing about 30mph in traffic. I got up to go tell him that something was making a ticking sound and it was coming from us outside, but I thought I should pee first. While in the restroom, the ticking sound was replaced by a final click and the sound of metal rolling away.

Since he could not hear me the first time I said it, I made my way toward Kasey to inform him that I suspect that we just lost our hubcap. With no where to pull over and nearly a half mile already travelled we could do nothing to retrieve it. I dropped a pin on the google maps and called the Les Schwab to explain that we would be needing a new hub cap when we got home. A very nice and apologetic employee indicated that he would be sure to record the information so we would not have to explain the event.

We had no idea where we were going to spend the night. I took over driving while Kasey slept and we made our way through northern Nevada. Somewhere north of Winnemucca, we needed to turn left toward Denio. The road was completely straight for miles. We stopped in Denio to change drivers and continue toward Lakeview. We could have stopped at a campground that we had been to before, Virgin Valley in Nevada, but we thought since it was about 2 pm, we should continue onward. We saw a scenic waterfall next to the road and stopped to take a picture. The downgrade at Doherty mountain has been mentioned before and others consider it the scariest road, probably due to no guardrails and steep dropoff. 

As we travelled toward Lakeview, we saw prescribed burns along the hillsides. I thought we could hook up with Nathan, Catherine Paul's son who lives in Lakeview, and works for the Oregon Department of Forestry on the wildfire suppression and fire fighting. But he didn't answer the texts and we didn't now if he was even in town. Turns out he was in the field tending to some prescribed burns.

We stopped at the Lakeview Fairgrounds to dump our septic at their new dump station. It is $10, which seems to be a bit high, but we got it done and would not need to do that tomorrow.

Still no word from Nahan so we headed out and I started checking possible camping spots on iOverlander and there was one listed about a half hour outside of Lakeview. Tad was getting antsy and we asked him to wait several times. We should have listened to him. When we pulled off, the spot was open, and close to the road. Not really our ideal spot. We decided to proceed a little further on the forest service road. It was paved and fairly level so I thought it was promising. By now Tad was panting excessively and looking uncomfortable. We will let you out soon, buddy I told him. Well about a mile down the road, he could no longer wait. Emergency! Luckily no traffic and for the first time, I let him out the front door instead of the back door. Luckily, the offending material was on top of a carpet we lay across the floor. 

I took off to be with Tad while he ran and squatted every few minutes until he no longer was squatting. Meanwhile Kasey had the unenviable job of cleaning the interior disaster. Which really turned out to be minor. In my meandering with Tad, I spotted a perfect camping location. So you see, it all works out. 

Comment was able to wonder in this nice spot. We saw one vehicle the rest of the evening.

Day 39: Stuck in a time loop. Somewhere in Utah

 

After finding out that our brakes needed replacing, we headed back to another long stint at the local Les Schwab Tire place. This looks like a fairly new place but it was getting busy. We had no alternative. This time we left the pets in the motorhome. I brought my computer into the waiting area. They have a nice setup for just that purpose with plug ins and free wifi. We were there for several hours so I got some work done. Still, it isn't distraction free.

It was cold out and when I walked over to Walmart to get a few cans of dog food to hold us over, I saw hoarfrost on the grass. Hoarfrost makes use of the moisture in the atmosphere to grow and interlock, making for a dramatic frost sculptures on anything solid  even blades of grass. 

Temperatures and dew point have to be below freezing, in order for the water vapor in the atmosphere to go straight from a gas to a solid, creating those white, interlocking patterns of frost. The crystals that form are as if someone sprayed water during extremely cold temperatures when no liquid could pool and freeze.

It was warm in the sun, but when there was shade, it was very cool. Winter is coming.

Before long, we were making our way north again, following the route we drove the previous day for a while. When we got near Provo, we were taking a bypass to the big city so we would not get into rush hour. We felt we could save some time that way, but I looked up in time to misdirect Kasey back on the freeway south. This particular highway has no exits for 15 miles! Arghhhh. We had to do a big circle. What a waste. Kasey was very gracious about my misdirection and took it in stride even though I felt we were in a time loop.

The salt flats of Utah are one long straight road and provide for some interesting backdrops.

We arrived at the Wendover Air Field Museum after it closed, but because it is a Harvest Host, we set up for the overnight stay. We ate our leftovers for dinner, played some cribbage, and turned in.

Day 38: Tires and brakes.

Morning was breaking spectacularly. It was cold. I put the bright colored coat on Tad and headed out to brave the elements. As the coffee percolated, Kasey was tucked snuggly in bed awaiting the return of the two of us and the weather report. 

It's pretty cold, I said. 

We got ourselves moving preparing for a long day of driving to make our way back to our home in Roseburg, OR.

The scenery was awesome as usual and we were making good time. The miles just rolling away as we listened to audio books.

 

To save time, we decided to get a bite to eat at the same place we got gas. I guess fuel is fuel. The stop was Scipio, Utah. Somewhere south of Provo.

The gas station also had a fast food component. I think it was a Wendy's and I got the chicken wrap. Closest I could come to something good for you. While we were waiting for the food, a gentleman that was filling the window washing containers with water was still milling about our motorhome. I told Kasey that maybe we should have moved it out of the gas stall. It wasn't busy and Kasey said nah, it is alright. I went back to the motorhome first while Kasey was inside. I asked the guy if he needed anything and he said that he was waiting for my husband. I asked why and he told me our tire looked like it was bubbling and could separate. I looked at his shirt and saw the Michelin logo on the upper left of his shirt. I said, gosh, know where there might be a Les Schwab around because that is where we got the tires last year. He indicate that none were close but he had a shop nearby and pointed to his shop. I said that I would talk it over with Kasey when he returned.

He also stopped Kasey and told him the same information only Kasey went ahead and said that we would be right over. 

I had found the closest Les Schwab. One was near Provo north of us and when I called to talk about the situation, I called one that was actually south of us, but I didn't know that. They had replacement tires available. Upon finding out this information, Kasey waved off the Michelin man and said we would be heading for Les Schwab 34 miles away. His name was Randy by the way, because Kasey typically asks folks for their name. He probably knows the name of the Wendy's staff as well. 

I ended up finding out that the Les Schwab was south and decided it was closer, even if it was back the way we came. We knew that we would need a place so a bar called Bar 86 was a Harvest Host and we sent a request for a stay which was approved right away. It was only a mile from the tire place. We got there and we got right in. Comet got to get out and wander around and she was very interested in the Les Schwab service trucks.

When they took the tires off, they mentioned that our brakes were very worn and needed to be replaced. They could get the part by morning. So instead of getting going early to make up time, we were going to be right back at Les Schwab in Richfield, Utah. So off to the Bar 86 we went to play some cards, watch the World Series and have some local food. They had quite a menu and the guy at Les Schwab said the chicken quesadilla was great so that is what I got. Unfortunately, they dropped half of it and had to cook another one. They brought me the half they didn't drop and would box up the other one for take out. Kasey got the garbage can nacho's which was enough for 4 people. We ended up getting several meals out of that purchase. The owner bought us some shots which was very nice and when we went over to say thank you, we got onto the subject of dogs. He was a big dog fan and showed us his wall of dog pictures. He even said that we could bring our dog in. As usual, Tad was a big hit. He is a great ambassador. Always willing to get attention from any stranger who wants to venture over.

It was a very quiet place and we slept well.

Day 37: Leaving Aztec. Headed Home.

In the morning, we were treated to another yummy breakfast of French toast, ample coffee, and wonderous conversation. Jim is getting ready to travel to Cape Town, South Africa in a few days and he is preparing for his trip. The pets got a nice morning walk of freedom in his well fenced back yard.  We missed seeing the Gambel's Quail, but Tad and I heard them in the morning when we went out just at sunrise. I think I may have lost interest in tracking the quail when the coyote's were howling within a quarter mile. Tad gave a few muffled "ruffs" to let me know he was not happy with those noises.

Jim presented us with a few more novels that he liked but did not want to hang onto since he read them all and he thought we would enjoy the author. So we are set.

As we ventured north into Utah, the scenery became spectacular. We took a highway northeast out of Moab toward Cisco and along the Colorado River. The scenery was spectacular and we were wondering why were heading toward a town called Cisco to stay when there were so many awesome looking spots to just spend the night. We stopped often to take in the views and get some pictures. 

This part of the landscape has a way of making you feel insignificant when you think of the eons of time that sculpted these formations in the surroundings. It also makes you think about how awesome nature is.

We decided to stop and explore what a few of the campsites looked like. The government is on furlough and we had no idea what the situation would be. I tried out my panoramic camera and it was really very cool. It actually worked better on social media where you can just move your phone around as if you are right there. But here is what it looks like in a still picture.

This one is with the motorhome in it.

The campground was about half full but not surprising since it is late October and it will be near freezing tonight.

We came out of the canyon to some nice views of the river and the colors of the changing foliage.

Cisco, Utah is a town that has slowly become more of a Ghost Town. Population 4. The store is the only establishment and it has some interesting things in it. A combination of a thrift store, mercantile, and grocery store. We got there right before it closed at 530pm. The Interstate 70 is just to the north and when it was finished, it by-passed Cisco, so you have to have a real reason to go to Cisco. We had a reservation with Harvest Host. There was still some light so we walked around the "town" and read all the "no trespassing" and "keep out" signs. We covered the town in 2 blocks. It must not have been much before the interstate was put in. One of the claims to fame is that part of the filming of Thelma And Louise movie was nearby. It also has access to the Colorado River. A bus went by while we were there and it did not stop. It had some markings indicating an outdoor adventure type of business. I consulted the map and the road that they came from has access to a campground and landings no doubt for river rafting.

It is setting up to be cold tonight. The wind is starting to howl. But it was not too bad as we pulled 2 of the 3 slide-outs in to conserve heat, put a coat on Tad and wore our long johns.

 

Day 36: Beyond Aztec: Day of adventure with Ramakka Adventure Tours

We started the day with some of Jim Ramakka's famous french toast. He makes it with sourdough bread and cinnamon. We had great conversation about the area and his work as well as all the great things he has done and the people he has met through his career. We decided to head out on our adventures. We headed out to the Salmon Ruins to see some artifacts and some ruins from the ancient people that lived in the area. As usual, I think we were spending too much time since we have so much to see today. But it was interesting. They knew Jim well here too. A picture was hanging on the wall that he had taken. A night sky and moon with red rock formations.  It was very well displayed using the metal printing process. It made for a shiny picture.

The ruins were very interesting and they described the area in detail. 

Tad was even allowed to walk around outside.

Next we headed to some of the areas where Jim had worked when he was a biologist for the BLM. He worked mostly from memory as we drove these back roads outside of Aztec and along the San Juan River. The drilling sites were everywhere and the "footpad" as he called them, was centered with a cylindrical storage tank. Lots of pipes and signs accompanied these structures.

The landscape was amazing and filled with fall colors. Jim said that we had timed it well as the leaves were at their peak.  We couldn't pass up a nice picture of the colors and so we stopped frequently. When Kasey failed to attach his seat belt, the ingenious system of this newer car faithfully reminded the passenger of the infraction with growing volume if the passenger kept ignoring it. And if that was not enough, Jim made sure to let Kasey know of his failure to heed the warning.

The roads were not too bad but as we were approaching what we thought was the cliff with all of the petroglyphs, the roads started to become a little less friendly. At one point when we felt as if we may be in an orchestrated Subaru commercial, we decided that we could not take the chance and we walked.

It was a nice walk but our petroglyphs awaited us elsewhere.

Jim knew exactly where to go but he thought we would run out of time so he opted for some petroglyphs close to the road and still spectacular.

The rock formations are just amazing. I think I see owls in them.

We had enough time to stop at the Wines of San Juan for some wine tasting.

It is a nice comfortable looking spot and they had just had party the night before so everything was quiet. 

We had time to goof off with their swings and pick up a pizza at the local grocery store just before the sun set.

Day 35: Aztec New Mexico and Jim Ramakka

The parade of RV travelers started at daybreak. Those that needed to attach their towed behind vehicles stopped outside of our window as they took the 15 to 20 minutes to ready their tow.  Our preparation for departure is getting quicker.

By now we have the routine down. Once we were finished in the bedroom area, dressed and bed made, slide out pushed in, we moved excess items from the front seat back to the bed. Coffee maker cleaned and put away, breakfast finished, we could bring the second slide out in. Table converted to the dog bed, it could be brought in as well. A quick check that all cabinets were secured, we were ready to roll out.

From Albequerque, the ride to Aztec, New Mexico and Jim Ramakka's house was only a couple of hours. ETA 1230. We arrived as scheduled and parked next to Jim's storage shed. We tucked in there nicely as if it was built just for such a vehicle. 

Jim was there to great us with a big smile and hug. We got the tour of his house. A nice one story adobe building with an open floor plan. His office, bedroom, reading room, and Vicky's office rounded out the rooms in the house. Vicky's office was filled with her books, photos, and other items that must have comforted her.

Every aspect of the house had a theme of the desert southwest and anything associated with it. Native American art, native animals, and natural sculptures and colors. Photographs that Jim had taken were framed and displayed around the house. A grey cat, Lexi, peaked out from behind the full bookshelves. It would be the only time I would see her. The natural light streaming into the reading room demonstrated the design of this room; comforting and relaxing. The house was built in 2001 and designed by Jim and Vicky. The outside retaining wall and walkway were personally constructed by the Ramakka's given them an emmense personal connection to the appearance. Even though Vicky was no longer physically here, you could feel her influence and sense her immense appreciation and love for their home. 

Jim was eager to take us to meet the neighbors that he admires so much, Jim and Deedee. We gave Tad a potty break before heading over to say hi. A nice warm and welcoming couple made us realize that Jim had some special people nearby. No wonder he wanted us to meet them.

 We couldn't stay long, Jim wanted to get some lunch and get to the Aztec Museum before it closed. Aztec, is a small town and has a main Street with shops and restaurants. Across from the restaurant where we had lunch, was the museum. The museum curator recognized Jim and she recounted how instrumental Vicky was in helping the museum.  

There was a lot to see and we spent quite a bit of time. Jim had obviously been here before and kept us moving so we could sight see some more. Of course anything federal was out of the question because of the government shutdown. He then turned his attention to the visitor center and Museum in Farmington not far away. Conversation on the way to the visitor center was lively and constant. So much so that he missed the turnoff. We doubled back to the spacious parking lot with just a few cars in the lot. The visitor center was also an early voting poling station. The receptionist was a young, native woman with a very welcoming demeanor. She gave us a quick description of what we would see and where. The museum in the visitor center contained history of the area related to the oil and gas drilling. Everything was presented in such a positive light. There was no discussion of the downside of this industry. Jim said the museum was paid for by the oil and gas industry. Figures. One thing that struck me was an interactive map, clearly a GIS project, of all of the wells, active an inactive. There were dots everywhere on the map. Was there any unimpacted land in the area I thought. 

There was a room in the museum dedicated to collectables. It seemed to be just getting started. Just a few items in cases in a mostly empty room. A 2 headed calf was displayed. Seemed to be an odd choice of importance.

He wanted to show us the San Juan College where Vicky taught and where she was honored with a foundation in her name. She helped numerous people get their GED diplomas. Many attended her memorial and recounted the impact that she had had on them and their success. Truly inspirational. 

We then went to the nature center for a quick visit. Again getting the tour of the area as Jim missed the turn and had to double back. We enjoyed getting a larger tour of the area.  A very well conditioned group of mule deer were ambling about.

We headed to Farmington to grab some dinner at Three Rivers Brewery.

I had the shrimp and chips and it was quite a lot of food. We finished up and headed to Jim's. Tad had been in the motorhome all this time so I took him for a nice walk, fed him and Comet and went in to Jim's house to have some chocolate brownie and ice cream for dessert. What a long but fun day.

We continued to have great discussions and before we knew it, Jim was giving us books that his wife, Vicky, had written so we could enjoy her writings. These novels are based on real experiences, but the names are changed to protect the innocent.