We woke to our final morning in Cabo Pulmo, feeling both delight and deep gratitude for the nearly three weeks we spent in this extraordinary place. So many memories now live in our hearts—time shared with new friends and those we’ve known for years, special moments with each other, and adventures with our beloved pets.
Our day began with breakfast alongside our friend Stephen, who’s working on a marketing project for Kim and Randy. He wanted to capture a bit of our experience on video—our time at The Last Place and our reflections on Cabo Pulmo. We hopped on our bikes and pedaled into the village, stopping first for another delicious breakfast at Pelicanos. We were happy to see the same young waitress as last time—her name is Dulce. She’s kind, patient, and encouraging as I continue practicing Spanish during our conversations.
While we ate, we watched the snorkel and dive boats being pulled along the sandy road to the beach right beside the restaurant. The men waved, honked their horns, and shouted invitations to join them—some even sang out as they approached yet another perfect day on the Sea of Cortez. Or, as some locals prefer, the Sea of California, in quiet resistance to honoring Cortez due to the atrocities committed during his violent incursion into Baja.
Stephen had suggested using the restaurant as a backdrop for our filming session, but Janice had her heart set on seeing if she could spot a Xantus’s hummingbird at Pepe’s Place. He’d told her he often sees one at his feeder, so we zipped over there on our bikes.
We entered Pepe’s backyard, where the feeder hangs, passing through the palapa beside his restaurant. Two men sat on a couch as we walked in, and one joked, “Looks like you’re some birders!” upon seeing Janice’s binoculars. As it turns out, we knew one of the men—Jeremy Buck—who had once been the roommate of our dear friend Joe Burns. Joe passed away unexpectedly in 2019 from a heart attack, far too young.
Jeremy and his friend David were visiting Cabo Pulmo on a birthday trip—Jeremy had turned 60, and a friend had given them tickets. Remarkably, Jeremy had met Pepe way back in 1992, just three years before the founding of Cabo Pulmo National Park, in which Pepe played a key role. We ended up talking for over an hour—Stephen captured some of it on film, including a conversation where I shared about our work with Umpqua Watersheds and Strategic Initiatives, and our hope to support conservation and community projects here in Cabo Pulmo. The synchronicity of it all amazed us. We spoke about the importance of continuing to nurture these connections and how they might strengthen our shared efforts in the future.
Eventually, we had to say goodbye and return to The Last Place to pack up the motorhome. Stephen came by to finish our interview. He’s such an easy person to talk to, and we were tempted to stay another day—but we’ve got projects waiting for us back home.
Before leaving, we took Tad for one last swim at the beach, then said our goodbyes to Leo, Randy, and Kim. I always find goodbyes hard, so I kept it brief, but we’re already looking forward to crossing paths again.
We hit the road for our three-hour trip to Todos Santos on the Pacific side. The bumpy dirt road out of Cabo Pulmo kept our pace slow—5 to 10 miles per hour—which gave us time for one last long look (for this year) at the stunning coastline. Once we hit pavement, we sped up to 50 mph, winding through the mountains and enjoying the dramatic shift in landscape as we climbed inland.
Pepe had connected us with his friend Lorena, who owns a beautiful piece of property in Los Cerritos, less than a mile from the beach. When we arrived, we found her warm, welcoming, and full of vision. She speaks excellent English and has been developing a small campground—clearing brush and putting in infrastructure for water and sanitation. She invited us to stay as long as we’d like and even welcomed us to join her for a Zumba class tomorrow!
Once again, we’re left in awe at the generosity and connections that keep unfolding on this journey. We’re also so aware of how this experience has deepened our relationship and magnified the love we share. Yes, I’m feeling sappy—but life is beautiful, and we are truly grateful.
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