Today, we set out on a new adventure, visiting the small fishing town of Puerto Adolfo López Mateos, about 20 miles west of where we're staying at 4 Points Lodging & RV Park. We considered taking our bikes, knowing our batteries could easily cover the 60-mile round trip, but we didn’t want to leave Lincoln, Tad, and Comet cooped up in the motorhome for too long.
After securing the rig and letting our host, Juan, know we'd be back later, we hit the road. The drive was straight and smooth, giving Janice time to read up on the town’s history. She found some fascinating stories about shipwrecks from the 1800s, sparking our curiosity even more.
As we arrived, we made our way to the Santuario de Ballenas Grises (Gray Whale Sanctuary). At the gatehouse, no one was around, but soon a man approached and told us there was a 50-peso parking fee. Fortunately, the lot was right next to a sandy estuary, perfect for giving the dogs a good walk before heading in.
The main plaza of the sanctuary was quiet, with only a few people, the plaza was lined with food stalls, tourist shops, and whale tour operators. We signed up for a two-hour boat tour, donned our life vests, and climbed into a small boat that accommodated eight people, but there were only three of us in our boat, including our captain, Juan Antonio. He didn’t speak English, which gave me a great opportunity to practice my Spanish—and I think I did reasonably well!
Out to Sea
As we left the dock, we cruised between the beach and a long sand dune island stretching for miles. Hundreds of birds soared overhead—egrets, pelicans, gulls, herons, and magnificent frigatebirds. The pelicans were especially breathtaking as they took off and glided effortlessly just above the water, flying so close to the boat that we could see every feather.
After about 30 minutes, we reached the open water where the gray whales were known to gather. The ride was bumpy and exhilarating, with waves lifting the boat and then dropping us down again like a roller coaster. We laughed like kids, soaking in the thrill of the ocean.
Then, we heard it—the unmistakable sound of a whale spouting. We circled, searching the waves, but it remained elusive. After 40 minutes, we finally spotted a small gray whale surfacing about 30 yards off our starboard side. It was a brief but magical moment.
Unfortunately, we didn’t see any more whales that day, but the experience itself was unforgettable. The salty air, the rhythmic rise and fall of the ocean, the birds soaring above—it was all part of the magic.
The Perfect Ending
Back on shore, we treated ourselves to delicious tacos and a perfectly made margarita. As we relaxed in the plaza, listening to Mexican music and watching the waves roll in, we couldn't help but smile.
Even though the whales were elusive, we had a whale of a good time—laughing, talking, and enjoying every moment of this perfect Baja day.
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