Day 19: Stray Dogs, Chiva Diva, and Another Perfect Day in Cabo Pulmo

Our day began with coffee and breakfast on the sandy patio beside the motorhome, nestled under the beautiful cabana. To the east, palm trees swayed against the backdrop of the ocean, while behind us, rocky mountains and cacti framed the scene. 

As we sipped our coffee, two stray dogs trotted down the sandy road leading to The Last Place. The moment they spotted us, they veered into the campground, wagging their tails as if they'd been invited. They looked to be around six months old. Both were incredibly friendly and well-mannered for such young pups. 

They quickly made friends with Lincoln and Tad, romping around our camp as if they'd always belonged. Alejandra, the seven-year-old daughter of the groundskeeper here showed up and had so much fun frolicking with the pups. She is a sweet girl and helps me with my Spanish.

We figured someone might come looking for them, but as the day stretched on, it became clear they had decided to stay the night.The pubs introduced themselves to our Swiss friends, Dora and Hans, and it seemed Butch and Sundance—my nickname for the pups—had found the perfect hideout. 

Hoping the pups might reunite with their owners, Janice and I set off on our bikes toward town, expecting them to follow us. But by the time we were ready to leave, they had settled in for a siesta under our Swiss friends' motorhome.

We rode through the sometimes-deep sand into town, then continued north to the beach—the same spot where, last year, we had gotten our motorhome stuck overnight. It was Randy and Kim Webb, the owners of The Last Place, who helped us out of that predicament when we met them last year, around this same time. We quickly became friends, and when we told them about our work with Umpqua Watersheds, they generously donated a seven-night stay at their house and campground. Next Saturday, several of our friends from Umpqua Watersheds will be join us in paradise.

After our bike ride, we took a short siesta, knowing we had an evening adventure ahead—a party at the home of the legendary "Goat Lady," about 30 minutes away. We didn’t quite know what to expect. Our new friends Brian, an Australian traveler, and Pepe, a longtime Cabo Pulmo resident who played a key role in creating Cabo Pulmo National Park, assured us it would be a great time. They also regaled us with stories of Pepe’s recent 60th birthday party at Kim and Randy’s, where, after one too many margaritas, everyone ended up in the pool—fully clothed.

Still, as we prepared to head out, a tiny voice of hesitation crept in. What if we’re about to be sacrificed to the Goat Lady? I joked. “Whatever you do, don’t stare at the Goat Lady!” Around 4 pm, we hopped into Kim and Randy’s jeep and sped off down the sandy, bumpy roads south. The roads here remind me of Minnesota after a heavy snowstorm—deep sandbanks line the way, much like snowdrifts. 

When we arrived, we were stunned. Instead of a small gathering, we found 10–15 vehicles, most with U.S. license plates, including a couple from Oregon. The house and grounds were immaculate, perched in the hills away from the beach, offering breathtaking views of both the ocean and the mountains.

 Our host, Lisa Whitt, greeted us warmly and quickly clarified that she wasn’t fond of the nickname Goat Lady—she much preferred Chiva Diva. (Goat Diva) The evening was magical. We enjoyed incredible food, lively conversation, and music from a band fittingly called The Lost Dogs. Lisa's place, Whitt's End Rancho, is truly something special. 

On the way home, as the last light of day faded, we marveled at the scenery, talked, and listened to music. Then, out of the darkness, a lone horse appeared, walking down the road as if it, too, was soaking in the magic of the evening.

It was the perfect ending to another unforgettable day in Cabo Pulmo.